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David following P2 of Airlie.  The exciting traverse under the roof.

Id# 106807067,  Dimensions: 1125 x 1500 - View full size 
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By Matt Westlake
Jun 24, 2010

Cool shot! I like the climber's expression.

That rail for what I'm guessing is a hand traverse looks pretty big - does it take small or mid-sized gear or is all C4 #5/6 sized? I see a lot of small stuff on that follower's harness and a rope running straight up, indicating no gear till somewhere above that traverse.

By s f
From: GA/CO
Jun 30, 2010

The traverse is certainly airy; however, I recall that it protects well with both hand and finger sized cams. No BIG cams are necessary. Exiting this section is a bit cruxy for the grade and is often the last section of Airly to dry out, so be sure to keep something solid between yourself and the ledge below.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 9, 2010

The guy who lead this was trying to hand jam the crack, which is not advised and could not place much gear because of it. It takes #1, #2 camalot range. Nothing big on that route. If you do this correctly, you can get two to three pieces of gear in the traverse.

By Matt Westlake
Oct 26, 2010

Thanks for the beta - went out and did it, GREAT route. Very stimulating! The cruxes require some thought and gumption.

For the record, I ended up stuffing about 3 pieces in by leaning out as far as possible before committing and then snaking across. The final bit was slightly desperate but went clean (mainly because I was a bit freaked out). I then leaned down to add a piece near the end to protect my followers and had to use a #4 C4 for that. A #5 might have worked a bit closer to the end, as it was I had to lean way back over to get the cam in. I think next time it'll be a bit more smooth. Until I was staring out at that traverse I thought the first pitch crux was going to be the peak of the excitement...

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David following P2 of Airlie. The exciting traverse under the roof.

Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Jun 24, 2010
On this route:
Airlie Gardens (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a )