Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Ellison, Noble '82 |
Page Views: | 5,797 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Peter Gram on Sep 17, 2004 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Groovin' is on the far right side of the Egg. Look for small roof that angles up and right, turning into a right facing dihedral. This route isn't very obvious, but can be picked out by looking for the fixed pins.
Start up an expando flake, then quickly reach the roof. Two pins and an alien placement lead to a good bolt. Thin moves above the bolt are protected by 2 more pins, stoppers, and small cams. Continue up through kindof crappy rock to an anchor made up of a small tree and a piton.
One rope rap (60m rope) to get back down. This route is pretty unique (beginning is really good), but the rock is ricey and there is quite a bit of vegetation.
Start up an expando flake, then quickly reach the roof. Two pins and an alien placement lead to a good bolt. Thin moves above the bolt are protected by 2 more pins, stoppers, and small cams. Continue up through kindof crappy rock to an anchor made up of a small tree and a piton.
One rope rap (60m rope) to get back down. This route is pretty unique (beginning is really good), but the rock is ricey and there is quite a bit of vegetation.
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