Secret Crag Search

Sitting here at work unable to work because of my excitement in departing early from work. At noon I leave for a long intrepid weekend exploring a reportedly undeveloped area. Of course, I'm not going into specifics or even hint at where, as it might be a jaw-dropping gem or a laughable goose chase. However, I will divulge that it consists of miles of granite cliffs and boulders in a very seldom visited slice of the western US.

It would be interesting to read about other secret places, not specifics but existence.

Are there many if any "secret" and spectacular crags?

Your stash isn't a secret. We've been there and already poached all the good lines.

PT

Don't know about large areas but my buddy Jimbo who does a lot of trail running comes up with some gems now and then. Forgotten Wall on Mount Lemmon in Arizona is a good example. This wall and others have been visited before but for whatever reason the crags have not been developed. Check out the Super Mega Secret Show and Tell Only Area on Mt. Lemmon.

This area had a few routes because it looked so chossy and the approach was so overgrown with manzanita and scrub oaks. Then the fire rolled through. Ten minutes from the road and 40+ routes it makes a great spring and fall area.

I also know of some other areas that are not being visited much and have a lot of potential. Just need someone with the desire to put the work in.

No one trys to make it secret and it really isn't but its just not popular. In Central/Northern Arizona, there is the Waterfall which while it has probably better climbing then Paradise Forks, it probably gets only 10-20% of the traffic.

Sort of like Calavaras Dome (Cal Dome) in California. Climbing nearly as good as Yosemite but only 10% (if that) traffic.

If you're heading to Nevada, it's already too hot and the rock is too grainy...

paintrain wrote:Your stash isn't a secret. We've been there and already poached all the good lines. PT

The only ones left are death routes with chossy rock. Sorry. The cool thing is that no one descended into bolt ladder aiding them for the sake of getting to the top. That way we can get good enough to actually free climb them one day.

There are plenty of areas, even within an hour of Boulder, that due to obscurity or bitchyness of the approach have seen far less development than you would think. One example, which is already well enough known, is Big Elk Meadows. Lots of granite domes, hard short sporty crags, and sick boulders with only a couple areas of any significance seeing climbers (that I know of). Strange considering how much use it gets from other parties (mtn biking, dirt biking, etc).

According to MPs Bay area page all the best spots are on private property and unless your in the know you don't get to go. I just can't imagine where, sea side, skyline area, or maybe the gym. Anyways always been curios.

Rob T wrote:PT, Tea, play nice, no one's ever been to the mineral's before, we all missed that massive granite range on our USGS maps.

Not quite all of us.

Ditto the Deep Creeks. Ditto Painter Springs. Etc (!).

I know of your NV hotspot Backcountry. . . know it well.
If you're not ref. to NV, then forget what I said everyone, as there's nothing out there and I'm just joking!

Big Elk Meadows ("area") does have a lot more to be sent.

One of my favorite "secret crags"

Secret Crag

Super Secret tight hand splitter...

The Red is loaded with secret crags.

Unfortunately, the secret crag received the nick-name "City of Choss."

City of Choss

However, one route was put up in the chossness.

Don't Flake Out on Dharma's Needs

All in all it was worth the effort, and although there wasn't much to be climbed, I now love the area!

--- Invalid image id: 106751348 --- not the tallest crag but hey, glacially polished granite just a few short miles from lumpy Ridge. This crag all seems to be 7+ and has cleaner splitters than anything on Lumpy other than maybe Pear Buttress.

BackCountry wrote:Unfortunately, the secret crag received the nick-name "City of Choss." However, one route was put up in the chossness. All in all it was worth the effort, and although there wasn't much to be climbed, I now love the area!

Does the nearest "town" start with the letter "C"?
Damnit!! That was my next exploration, if it's where I'm thinking.

Thanks for letting us know BC.

Ben Cassedy wrote:The Red is loaded with secret crags.

Agree there are hollows deep in the Red River Gorge that have yet to even be discovered for new lines. The new guidebook is due out in print in July, and I can imagine there are already new areas being developed, often in secret, that aren't even named in the 'new' book.

As far as "secret crags" go, Cashiers, NC tops the list of places that I am personally familiar with. There are, of course, endless obscure walls in the western US, largely undeveloped (thankfully), but the ones around Cashiers have been developed in an entirely different manner... they do provide for an excellent backdrop for the overly luxurious golf resort communties though...

Rob T wrote:PT, Tea, play nice, no one's ever been to the mineral's before, we all missed that massive granite range on our USGS maps. Have fun wherever you're off to(hoping it's the above, as the other west desert granite is even more disappointing)

I know of multiple "secret" crags. I'm just saying - even those, we weren't the first to get there (found a really old pin on the obvious old school line last visit to one). But there is still plenty to get done.

There are things to be sniffed out. You just have to want it and be willing to get skunked after driving and/or hiking for hours. Some things aren't a secret, just often, overlooked, forgotten or no one is willing to hike and put the work in.

LONG LIVE THE SECRET CRAG!!! - and those willing to put up new crags, develop them and tell everyone about it when they are done.

PT