Millard Canyon Climbing

MUST DISPLAY A FOREST ADVENTURE PASS HERE

Millard Falls is an aid climbing practice location in either an awesome setting (prior to 10 am on weekdays) or a terrible setting (any other time). The climbs ascend the solid, very water polished granite right next to Millard Falls. Since this area is only a few minutes from LA and has a 75' waterfall it can get absolutely packed with families, rednecks, rangers, and the general LA populace. The climbs are bolt ladders that are either bomber or really scary. Oh, your rope will get wet. Unless the falls have dried up, it'll fall right into a pool after you rap off the routes. These routes might even go free! Post up any information or beta about that if you have it.

There are two good routes worth doing and at least one scary one. The Left Ladder is easiest and straightforward. All you need is draws and aiders/stirrups.

The Center Ladder (just right of the left one) is good, but you'll need to stick clip the first bolt. There is a short section of 5.8ish after the 3rd bolt or you'll need a stick clip. This thing has to go free. If it wasn't for the moves getting to the first bolt, it looks 5.10. The first couple of moves off the ground look really hard. All bolts are good on this one.

The Right Ladder is hard on very poor bolts and ends at a poor 2 bolt anchor. Pro is 5-7 rivet hangers, hooks, Doubloons, and a cheat stick?

I'd really recommend going early morning on a weekday and you'll have the place to yourself. On the weekend or anytime after mid morning, well.... just be ready for half of LA to be standing around next to you. I won't say you can't go during these times since there are no rules in place, but just think about how a family hiking to see a waterfall will feel about you playing around right next to it. That being said, it's not really a wilderness experience on the weekend anyway. There are also some houses you pass on the way in up on the creekside. Stay on the trail and out of their yards.

Camping: There is a campground here, but not very secluded. It's sort of right next to the main trail / road about 200 yards from the parking lot. It has picnic tables and fire rings.

Season: Year round. Right after rain, the falls will really be going and while the routes are not under it, you'll get a decent amount of spray.

Dogs: Are allowed if kept on leash. I was told that the rangers WILL ticket you $300 if they see Fido off the leash or you don't pick up the poo!

NOTICE: If anyone hassles you about climbing, please cite Howard Okamoto, the USFS Recreation Officer for Angeles NF, River District, which includes Millard Falls. Apparently the campground host has taken it upon himself to be rude to climbers, but cannot technically ticket anyone since it's not illegal to climb in the Angeles National Forest. He can cite you if you threaten him or place new bolts. Just be polite and go about your business.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=633588&msg=932879#msg932879

Howard S. Okamoto

Recreation Officer

R5, Angeles NF, Los Angeles River RD

12371 North Little Tujunga Canyon Road

San Fernando, CA 91342

818-899-1900 ext 229

hokamoto@fs.fed.us