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Alpine Ice Ratings, now available

Original Post
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Alpine ice (AI) ratings are now available when selecting an ice rating. Previously only water ice (WI) ratings were available.

Dan Dalton · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 1,465

Schaweet! Now, just to be clear, AI ice is merely an indicator of the way in which the ice forms or where it is located right? AI ice is generally more permanent and is usually harder than WI ice right? At least this is what I have thought from my experiences in the alpine on ice.

The number, aka the steepness, is the same. WI2 is just as steep as AI2 right?

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990
Dan Dalton wrote:Schaweet! Now, just to be clear, AI ice is merely an indicator of the way in which the ice forms or where it is located right? AI ice is generally more permanent and is usually harder than WI ice right? At least this is what I have thought from my experiences in the alpine on ice. The number, aka the steepness, is the same. WI2 is just as steep as AI2 right?
I have no idea..... I just added the values :)
Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Now we need NE ice, and AK ice, and HA ice.

Andrew Carson · · Wilson, WY · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,520

I suppose I better pipe up since I asked for the addition of "alpine ice". Very generally, water ice is formed from water dripping/flowing and freezing, while alpine ice forms from the transition of snow (and related forms of precipitation) to a harder and harder substance, a metamorphosis, if you will.
Tons of situations are a crossover, and there are lots of routes that might be "alpine ice" that will present "water ice" in the right conditions.
So, no hard and fast rules here, as I see it, but maybe a more subtle approach to giving a climb with ice a specific rating.
This all came about because I posted the Black Ice Couloir as a route and didn't think "water ice" was as accurate as an "alpine ice" description. Take it for whatever it's worth. It's all slippery.

Tits McGee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 260

Dan - after our conversation last night, I stand corrected. WI and AI use the same scale from 1 to 7. The difference being how they are formed, the number grade refers to the scale and angle of the climbs...

adventure.howstuffworks.com…

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Please.

AI forms on Mondays, Thurs, and Sundays of the month following the second trimester of the solstace. WI forms when the Baby Jesus forgets to turn off the hose. Now from what I understand, there not need be a specific time, but I hear it usually happens first thing in the morning; sometimes in the middle of the night as well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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