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Routes in Middle Bell Tower
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Arm and Hammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Demon's Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 R |
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Dire Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Easy Way Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lowe Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Once in a Blood Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Regge Pole T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Tonic Immobility T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Scott Keller, Mike Lyons, Brian Wieland, Jake Anderegg, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 909 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler King on Jun 6, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
The bolted line on the mottled face just right of the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route. This route starts at the belay ledge at the top of the Ellsworth-McQuarrie 2nd pitch and climbs 2 pitches to meet back up with the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route.
From the Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay ledge, climb up and right to clip your first bolt. Six bolts up this face and 100' of somewhat spacey, 5.10 climbing on crumbly rock brings you to another ledge (where the next Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay is located). Continue climbing up a thin crack (a .4 can be placed here). The piton at the top of this crack is missing so bring micros and cross your fingers. Traverse to the right and clip the next bolt. Four more bolts and up through the 10d crux brings you to the 2 bolt belay. A few more bolts and some gear will bring you to the Ellsworth-McQuarrie pitch 5 anchors. A 60 meter rope will get you down fine.
Don't let the crumbly rock deter you! It's not quite as bad as the top of Ellsworth-McQuarrie. Get out there and test your finesse on those flexing flakes...
From the Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay ledge, climb up and right to clip your first bolt. Six bolts up this face and 100' of somewhat spacey, 5.10 climbing on crumbly rock brings you to another ledge (where the next Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay is located). Continue climbing up a thin crack (a .4 can be placed here). The piton at the top of this crack is missing so bring micros and cross your fingers. Traverse to the right and clip the next bolt. Four more bolts and up through the 10d crux brings you to the 2 bolt belay. A few more bolts and some gear will bring you to the Ellsworth-McQuarrie pitch 5 anchors. A 60 meter rope will get you down fine.
Don't let the crumbly rock deter you! It's not quite as bad as the top of Ellsworth-McQuarrie. Get out there and test your finesse on those flexing flakes...
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