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Speed is of the Essence
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 41
votes
Routes in Penitentiary Wall
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Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deception TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X |
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Fresh Fish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prison Wallet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | FRA Stuart and Bret Ruckman 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,314 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | John J. Glime on Aug 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is the obvious 6-inch crack in the left facing corner to the right of Tax Evasion and Climb and Punishment.
Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than lie-backing for this climb, in my opinion.
This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.
Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.
Contrary to the route name, speed is not of the essence, it is much better perhaps to take your time and look for good pro, use caution with the placements during the first half of the climb as there is a lot of junky rock. Stemming works better than lie-backing for this climb, in my opinion.
This climb is worth doing if you are in the area and have the time, but it is definitely only one star.
Descent: We traversed left to the slings above Climb and Punishment, use your best judgement.
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