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My Top Rope Anchor Last Weekend - Please critique and help me get better

Original Post
randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Anchor Rigging

Last weekend I was in the Gunks and there were no bolts at one of the routes (in the Trapps) I wanted to top rope. Most people in the area use cams and passive pro to set up an appropriate anchor. As I am new to Trad and did not have gear nor the experience, my tools were limited.

There was one tree about 20 feet back and there was also a rock formation with a large boulder sitting on rock leaving a crack. I ended up running webbing around the tree with a ring bend (aka water knot) and extending it the twenty feet with cord. At the end of the cord I tied a figure eight that hung over the wall. At the crack I ran cord through / around it and down to the same point over the wall where I again tied a figure eight. For wear resistance I have put tubular nylon over the cord; this nylon sheath as you may call it was what the rock crack was wearing against. I then clipped the two figure eight knots together with two locking steel carabiners (opposite and opposed) and proceeded to top rope and climb the route. I prefer using steel carabiners as it does not rub off Aluminum onto the rope and get my hands dirty.

When I was finished and came back to take apart the anchor I noticed that the entire load had been taken by the cord that was tied at the crack and no load had been taken at the tree. This was evident due to the wear in the nylon webbing. I assume that the cord stretches and that the short leg of the anchor system took the brunt of the load. This is similar to the limitations of an equalette that I have been reading about in my anchors book.

What could I have done differently to equalize the two anchor points better? I feel that the anchor was safe but lacked the professional touch of someone with experience.

At my disposal I had:
3 - 20 foot loops of cord tied off with triple fisherman’s knots and covered with nylon webbing.
2 sections of webbing about 10 ft long each.
6 quickdraws
4 locking carabiners (2 of which were steel)
2 - 120 cm slings (one nylon, one dyneema/nylon)

-Randy

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732

Dont listen to me but I may have used a sling to connect the two points together and put in a magic X with limiter knotts. The x would equalize it and the knotts would limit extension and add redundency.

Dan 60D5H411 · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,239

To equalize and be redundant:
1) Keep your initial anchor up to the figure eight knots
2) Clip a sling into both of your figure eights
3) Clip a second sling into both of you figure eights
4) Magic X both of the slings and clip with your steel lockers
5) Good to go...two slings for redundancy and Magic X slides to distribute forces evenly

Luke to Zuke · · Anchorage · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 220

If you added a picture, I might think any of this is actually worth something.

The best advise is to actually GO OUT CLIMBING with an experienced climber. ask him.. watch him..

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Sorry Luke. I didn't think about taking a picture at the time of my anchor building or teardown. I got the answer I wanted. I did not take the last step and connect the two points with a sliding x. That's all I needed to think through.

Climbing is new to me in general and I try to go with experienced people. This time I happened to be the only one with any knowledge.

Rob Alexander · · Alta · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 80

ditto for hooking up with an experienced partner...

and def dont do this...

Steven Davis · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2008 · Points: 110

How about webbing at both the tree and the boulder/crack. Then secure each end of 40 feet of cord (two sections connected with fishermans) to the webbing (locking biner or draws). Equalize at edge, tie a 'super figure eight' and locking biner(s) for the masterpoint. Equalized, redundant. (The knot connecting the two lengths of cord might get in the way of your masterpoint.) This way, you can save your slings.

A single 50-foot length of static cord or webbing is a nice thing to take along when toproping.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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