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Routes in Water Wall
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Aussie Avalanche T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black and Tan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Comales Tamale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Easy Gully T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gothic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lean Green Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pure Vida T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skewed Right Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Take the Plunge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tranquilo T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Wall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Jay Foley, Donna Longo |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting
Details
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
Another quality line on Water Wall, Open Books starts up 3 open book features, then turns a roof at the top.
Start in the first open book, step right on a ledge, head up the 2nd open book (still easy), step right and enter the 3rd open book. A technical crux guards the exit stepping left out of this last corner, which is followed by easy climbing to the headwall. Clip a piton with a big reach (can be backed up with gear), and turn the tricky steep section- the 2nd crux of the route- to the big ledge and the anchor.
Start in the first open book, step right on a ledge, head up the 2nd open book (still easy), step right and enter the 3rd open book. A technical crux guards the exit stepping left out of this last corner, which is followed by easy climbing to the headwall. Clip a piton with a big reach (can be backed up with gear), and turn the tricky steep section- the 2nd crux of the route- to the big ledge and the anchor.
Location
Middle to right side of Water Wall. Just left of Gothic Pillar, look for 3 open book/wide groove features, each one to the right of the one below it.
Photos
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