Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches
FA: W. Crowther and B Gilmore 1959/1960
Page Views: 22,790 total · 109/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


193 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared.A great place to hone your slab climbing skills.Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure.

Start from the launch pad.

Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch.

Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts along a steep ramp. Belay on small gear in a crack with an old pin [? still there??], or traverse left to a two bolt anchor on Interloper.

Pitch three (5.5): The mental crux for most.  Straight up and a little right climbing past 1 bolt (replaced 2022) on this 100ft pitch to a 2 bolt anchor at some large solution pockets. The climbing is moderate but feels harder due to the smooth rock and long runout.

P 2 and P3 can be combined with a 70m rope.

Pitch 4 (5.5): move right to a pretty left facing corner with a nice crack, up this to gain a dike [#3 protects nicely] and shortly after, a comfortable stance at a slanting corner. Belay from here with gear, lower is better. (see photo "P4 Belay", look for and old, but solid, piton on the left easily backed up with medium cams #0.75 / 1.0 )

Pitch 5 (5.6): A couple ways to do this one. You can move up and right across smooth slab over a tiny overlap (small wires) to a slippery dike; or stay left of the dike in a good grove then traversing right to the last few feet of the dike. Either way you do it you are heading for a slightly flaring corner (once was a small tree, now #2 cam) then to the right over a slab to a two bolt anchor below the dike that splits the steep headwall. The direct dike is a bit spooky but more fun in my opinion where as the left option is better protected, easier, but harder to see the line.

Pitch 6 (5.5): Steep but moderate climbing gets you up the 20ft headwall and on to the truly moderate climbing.. Up the easy dike to a good stance. belay from gear.

Pitch 7 (5.3): Up dikes and left over a slab to a tree belay.

Pitches 8 and 9 (5.1 ish): I normally simulclimb them clipping the one bolt between the tree and the summit.Follow the dike or choose your own adventure.Belay from trees above, or stop to belay from 1 bolt at the halfway mark.

Location Suggest change

Follow directions to the launch pad from Whitehorse directions....
From the top turn right (north) and follow a trail down... Many parties rap down with 2 ropes after doing the harder pitches to avoid the hike....

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, tricams helpful in solution pockets....[NOTE: a #3 Camalot-sized piece protects the move onto the dike off the top of the crack on P4 (P3, if P1 & P2 are combined; R Hall]

Some pitches are run out giving it the R rating.... The physical crux is well protected but there is some spooky climbing on most pitches for those not comfortable running it out on 5.5 and under....

Photos

loading