Thank you for the dis-service.

I just wanted to say thank you whom ever took the biners off of the anchor of monkey wrench/ anarchy rules causing some major rope linkage. I replaced the two old lower off hooks last fall with new bolts hangers and 2 brand new biners for a quick lower off, since that's how every anchor is at anarchy wall.
Thanks again for making my money and efforts seem like a waste.

Out with the [[Old]]106552036 in with the New. 9-22-09.

Thats too bad, those kinda people usually arent too into the climbing community.

But are those biners necessary? you got the d-links right there?

I think it is best to just have 2 half inch quicklinks on each bolt. People don't steal them as much, they wear a hell of a lot longer and it doesn't incourage people to directly TR off the anchors. Sorry somebody was an idiot though.

"But are those biners necessary? you got the d-links right there?"

Yes. if only one quicklink or biner is on each bolt the rope will run badly, get twisted to hell and the force on the anchor is that much higher becouse of the angle.

Luke to Zuke wrote:But are those biners necessary?

Yes. Without them, you will pig-tail your rope.

This anchor setup is becoming the new standard. And for good reason. Please, if you see anchors like this, leave them like this.

Good luck with that. It's lame that people steal them, but people always have. I agree that the two quicklinks on each bolt solves a bunch of problems, not the least of which is that people are much less likely to steal them.

"This anchor setup is becoming the new standard."

hmm. the only place I've ever seen this as standard was in Thailand. People seemed to steal the biners a lot less out there, too...

I see a 'triangle'

Steve

Yeah, I'm not wild about that part, either. 3 or four chain links quicklinked to the anchor would solve all of that.

I've had to start using red locktite to keep people from stealing quicklinks. If you get any cheaper than that you need to be put back and re-fucked.

Oh no, a triangle, were all gonna die. Reality check please. This is the new standard but I only use it where I don't think the not well informed climbers will be climbing. Busy areas where there are lots of easy climbs.

caughtinside wrote: I don't. I see a V. Last time I checked a triangle had 3 sides.

Thanks for that. Needed a laugh after a long day.
Also, Sam, your bit about getting re-fucked was clutch.

The 'new standard' in California is a quicklink and a mussy hook (tow hook). Its bomber. It lasts for freaking 'ever. And even the R-Tards that lurk around stealing anchor biners probably won't steal a tow hook.

Sorry that people are idiots Monty. Thanks for doing your part.

+1 for mussy hooks. Sorry that people don't appreciate that you spent money on this, Dave.

Meh what can you do. Well at least who ever took them probably spent an hour un twisting their rope.

Was up there this morning and noticed this. So freaking lame. Whoever you are, thanks for the twists in my new rope, jackass. Didn't have any biners to contribute or I would have. I will at least bring a couple steel rap rings and attach them to the quicklinks next time I'm up there. Not as good, but better than this.

Also, my buddy's draws were stolen from Anarchitect. If you know the culprit, please punch them in the throat for us.

wait you leave draws on routes?

That's a pretty common practice to leave draws on harder test piece's. They're not booty, someone is just really phyched about getting they're project.

mattnorville wrote:wait you leave draws on routes?

...let's not relieve this debate. How 'bout we leave it by saying that stealing anchor hardware is douchey?

This new way of doing it has an obvious problem: You are leaving gear that can be directly used climbing. When you cut a few links of chain and use a quick link to complete your anchor, no one is going to slap that on their harness or put it on their rack. The hangers and chains I added to some of the routes at high wire back in 2003 are still there. Hopefully only the last links in the chains need to be cut out.

People steal quick links, sure, and one would hope they are a minority. But I think many people will take a carabiner as it is unusual to see it as part of a permanent anchor. I like the mussy hooks as well. I've used the ones at Table Mtn. Definitely stick with chains or move to the hooks.

Missy hooks are becoming a lot more popular in the canyon, I put some on curvacious last fall since you have to lower to clean any ways. They can just be a little harder to clip especially with a fatter rope.

Better yet IMO are the Fixe sport anchors:

They are really spendy though.

Jeff the problem with that fix is that you have to replace the whole thing and need to use x-piece bolts. Mark's method (i hope) is becoming the standard at Rumney beefy glue in's 2 beefy quicklinks per bolt. cheap, easy to replace, easy to loctite up so people don't steal them. I like the ease of just dropping my rope in at the top but on most routes this just encourages people stealing stuff or top roping through them.

sorry for the shitty quality but anchor on the right

I looked into just getting those fixe biners since theifs would have to carry a wrench if they really wanted to Jack the biners.... But turns out they're $25 a piece. That's robery