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Elevation: 9,298 ft
GPS: 39.25668, -105.10263
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,694 total · 144/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 10, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A vast new expanse of granite at Devil's Head - this new area holds the potential for 50 more routes, and I'm not talking grid bolting - I mean independent lines, both sport and trad.

Walking into The Arena, there are various walls that are being developed to some extent.On the left is a long monolithic wall that currently has 3 sport lines - there will be others. On the right is a massive tower (up to 200' high) that has 3 sport routes and 1 trad route at the moment - again, there will be more.

There are also some other obvious things that will eventually hold routes.

The stone is generally very good (fine grained, featured, and steep), although there are sections of crystals and choss. The choss is being cleaned up rapidly.

The aspects are all different directions, so there is sun and shade in about equal proportions.

Seasonal closure of the rampart range road has got this shut down for the time being (December through April??) but if you come here in the summer of 2004 you should expect to see routes going in - bring a helmet, as choss will be tossed.

Getting There Suggest change

Now for the fun part - this is the most remote crag at Devil's Head, which some consider excessively remote in the first place. You have to hike all the way to the top and then back down the other side. Altogether, the hike is probably about 2 miles, and it's not flat. Consider yourself warned.

The best way to find it: hike to the firetower. Drop down into the near valley and attempt to follow cairns down hill. At the first junction in the cairns (which is a choice between digital tower or the crag ranch), take a left toward the Crag Ranch. At the next cairn junction, take a right toward HangDog Cafe. From Hangdog Cafe, follow the cairns down hill to the Shaft. From the Shaft, follow cairns uphill 200 yards to the Arena.

Sound hard to find? It is - Tod Anderson is supposed to update his book this winter and you can get a map that way. Or email me next summer if you want to go down there. I will probably be there a lot.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Arena

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 20
Peanut Gallery
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Juno
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Fight to the Finish
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 34
Ceres
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
The Comp
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Shady Character
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
Titus
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Vulcan
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
The Real Slim Shady
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
Cruisin' Down Shady Lane
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Spartacus
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Winners and Losers
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Maximus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Stimula
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Made in the Shade
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peanut Gallery E Side Wall
 20
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Juno W Side Wall
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fight to the Finish E Side Wall
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ceres W Side Wall
 34
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Comp E Side Wall
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shady Character Shady Lane
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Titus W Side Wall
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Vulcan W Side Wall
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Real Slim Shady Shady Lane
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cruisin' Down Shady Lane Shady Lane
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Spartacus E Side Wall
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Winners and Losers E Side Wall
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Maximus E Side Wall
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Stimula W Side Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Made in the Shade Shady Lane
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Arena »

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