The Arena Rock Climbing
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 9,298 ft |
GPS: |
39.25668, -105.10263 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 35,694 total · 144/month |
Shared By: | richard magill on Dec 10, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
A vast new expanse of granite at Devil's Head - this new area holds the potential for 50 more routes, and I'm not talking grid bolting - I mean independent lines, both sport and trad.
Walking into The Arena, there are various walls that are being developed to some extent.On the left is a long monolithic wall that currently has 3 sport lines - there will be others. On the right is a massive tower (up to 200' high) that has 3 sport routes and 1 trad route at the moment - again, there will be more.
There are also some other obvious things that will eventually hold routes.
The stone is generally very good (fine grained, featured, and steep), although there are sections of crystals and choss. The choss is being cleaned up rapidly.
The aspects are all different directions, so there is sun and shade in about equal proportions.
Seasonal closure of the rampart range road has got this shut down for the time being (December through April??) but if you come here in the summer of 2004 you should expect to see routes going in - bring a helmet, as choss will be tossed.
Walking into The Arena, there are various walls that are being developed to some extent.On the left is a long monolithic wall that currently has 3 sport lines - there will be others. On the right is a massive tower (up to 200' high) that has 3 sport routes and 1 trad route at the moment - again, there will be more.
There are also some other obvious things that will eventually hold routes.
The stone is generally very good (fine grained, featured, and steep), although there are sections of crystals and choss. The choss is being cleaned up rapidly.
The aspects are all different directions, so there is sun and shade in about equal proportions.
Seasonal closure of the rampart range road has got this shut down for the time being (December through April??) but if you come here in the summer of 2004 you should expect to see routes going in - bring a helmet, as choss will be tossed.
Getting There
Now for the fun part - this is the most remote crag at Devil's Head, which some consider excessively remote in the first place. You have to hike all the way to the top and then back down the other side. Altogether, the hike is probably about 2 miles, and it's not flat. Consider yourself warned.
The best way to find it: hike to the firetower. Drop down into the near valley and attempt to follow cairns down hill. At the first junction in the cairns (which is a choice between digital tower or the crag ranch), take a left toward the Crag Ranch. At the next cairn junction, take a right toward HangDog Cafe. From Hangdog Cafe, follow the cairns down hill to the Shaft. From the Shaft, follow cairns uphill 200 yards to the Arena.
Sound hard to find? It is - Tod Anderson is supposed to update his book this winter and you can get a map that way. Or email me next summer if you want to go down there. I will probably be there a lot.
The best way to find it: hike to the firetower. Drop down into the near valley and attempt to follow cairns down hill. At the first junction in the cairns (which is a choice between digital tower or the crag ranch), take a left toward the Crag Ranch. At the next cairn junction, take a right toward HangDog Cafe. From Hangdog Cafe, follow the cairns down hill to the Shaft. From the Shaft, follow cairns uphill 200 yards to the Arena.
Sound hard to find? It is - Tod Anderson is supposed to update his book this winter and you can get a map that way. Or email me next summer if you want to go down there. I will probably be there a lot.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Arena
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within The Arena
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About The Arena
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (13)
4 Comments