Tanks for the Hueco
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 312 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Brian Mullin, & Charles Walters, 10/87 |
Page Views: | 15,918 total · 58/month |
Shared By: | Rog on Nov 8, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
Pretty obvious once you're there. Use 'Bullet the Blue Sky' as a reference - this is just to the right of it. Start with a short, (kinda) slick slab. From the top, clip the first bolt, and then do a strenuous, slick layback followed by a 'beached whale' move that leaves you on top of the ledge. Have your belayer watch where the rope runs - it is easy get burnt from a fall onto the rope. After that move you're home free. Two lines of bolts follow huecos up the wall. Not sure which is which - we did the left route. As per Bob D (and I concur), the hueco portion of the route is 5.9.
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