Madison, WI

I'd put Coatimundi into that category of things that soars out of its given grade--if you can't hand jam. Most of the cracks at the lake have plenty of face holds to choose from that allow people who aren't used to that style of climbing to make it up fine. Coatimundi is among the handful that make you jam or pay. In that vein I've seen Sometime Crack shut down a fair number people who primarily climb sport. I even saw someone who will remain nameless resort to trying Welfare Line (5.12b crimp horror) out of desperation.

So after figuring out schedule I think we're going to make it out to Devil's lake next tuesday. My sister doesn't have any true gear and I'm not sure not packing any, just planning on bouldering. What are some good boulders/areas to hit up to make good use of our time for the day? Thanks again.

So after figuring out schedule I think we're going to make it out to Devil's lake next tuesday. My sister doesn't have any true gear and I'm not sure not packing any, just planning on bouldering. What are some good boulders/areas to hit up to make good use of our time for the day? Thanks again.

BOULDERING???!!!????!!! really BOULDERING???!?!?!?! A bunch of old trad guys are on this form bitching about 9's at the Lake, including me and you are going to hijack this to turn it into a bouldeing question???!!!!?? What the hell man???

Dylan Colon wrote:I'd put Coatimundi into that category of things that soars out of its given grade--if you can't hand jam. Most of the cracks at the lake have plenty of face holds to choose from that allow people who aren't used to that style of climbing to make it up fine. Coatimundi is among the handful that make you jam or pay. In that vein I've seen Sometime Crack shut down a fair number people who primarily climb sport. I even saw someone who will remain nameless resort to trying Welfare Line (5.12b crimp horror) out of desperation.

Welfare Line...thanks a lot for reminding me about that one. Has anyone out there sent that? To me, Bagatelle feels easier than Welfare Line.

jon jugenheimer wrote:BOULDERING???!!!????!!! really BOULDERING???!?!?!?! A bunch of old trad guys are on this form bitching about 9's at the Lake, including me and you are going to hijack this to turn it into a bouldeing question???!!!!?? What the hell man???

Oh get over yourself. I'm flying halfway across the country to visit my sister, not to go climbing.

Anyone have some useful responses? Thanks.

kevino wrote: Oh get over yourself. I'm flying halfway across the country to visit my sister, not to go climbing. Anyone have some useful responses? Thanks.

Go to DL bouldering page and you can run a search for problems in whatever diffficulty you want. Then pick your area based on the highest concentration of the problems you're interested in.

Shortest approach: North Shore. Most aesthetic: East Bluff North talus, or West Bluff. Longest approach: Reserve, in fact you might not even find it. 85 and sunny next Tuesday, perfect Devil's Lake bouldering temps!

Oh, and at Devil's Lake bouldering is usually considered climbing, at least to some!

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Chris treggE wrote: Go to DL bouldering page and you can run a search for problems in whatever diffficulty you want.

\re-hijack\

Yeah, you might find varying difficulty within one problem too. What is the Zipper these days? V6+/7/8-?

\end hijack\

Freakin Anchorpoint. Dobbe, you're a great guy, but that V5 rating from using the block is throwin EVERYTHING off. Don't know if its really V7, but its not V5. Also, the tall beta is great, if you're strong enough to pull it off, but its not super easy. Not a gimme

/end rant