Yosemite in June questions

Some buddies and I are looking to climb in Yosemite Valley in June. The routes will be easy/moderate (i.e. Matthes Crest, Snake Dike on Half Dome, Cathedral Peak, Stately Pleasure Dome, etc.). Is late June too early for these routes and the approaches?

Any other multi-pitch routes you would recommend for this time of year. Trad 5.8 and below.

Thanks,
Matt

In late June it can be pretty hot in the Valley but since most of the climbs on your list are in Tuolumne, you should be just fine.

If you are in the Tuolumne area, the regular route on Fairview is a must do - don't let the 5.9 rating scare you. It is a few moves of 5.9 on the first pitch and the rest is 5.8 or less. South Crack on Stately Pleasure is great - includes a nice spicy runout at the top. West Crack of Daff is killer and has a bolt protected face move of 5.9 into a bunch of great crack climbing. Both Cathedral and Matthes are well worth doing - you might consider the Eichorn pinnacle if you feel up to it when you summit Cathedral.

If the Valley is not too hot, Royal arches is good and you can cheat through the 5.9. Avoid the crowds and get to the base before daylight! Nutcracker is a classic also. There are way too many to list!

Thanks for the input. I'm stoked! Now if it would just stop snowing in the Wasatch I could justify putting away the skis and focusing on climbing.

tuolume offers a lot more choices in yr grade range. the way this season has gone, there might well still be a good deal of snow left on the bud lake approach to matthes, so plan accordingly.

june in the valley can be hot until you get up off the deck. royal arches faces south-- central pillar is an obvious choice.

it's going to be a bumper crop for bugs, so save yr pennies for extra deet.

Be aware that it is possible that Tioga Pass will still be closed in June (i.e. the road through Tuolumne). The road is very often open by the end of May, but it is very dependent on the snow during the winter.

Here is a link to the dates that the road has opened since 1933.

monobasinresearch.org/data/…

I don't know what the snow has been like this year, but in years past if there is enough Tioga Pass will not open until July 4th weekend which could put a damper on things.

If it is open be sure to check out the Mobil station on the east end just before hwy 395 for dinner, amazing food!!!

EDIT: J, beat me by a couple minutes, once the snow gets low enough Lee Vining, the town on the east side of the pass will plow the road to get more business.

MOBIL rules

5.8 kind of limits you for multipitch in the Valley. But, if you're willing to push it into 5.9 you should check out Super Slide and Commitment. Both are mostly 5.7 and 5.8 with a few sections of 5.9 that are well protected.

For Snake Dike in June...you will either get perfect conditions or you will be baked to death.

In the Valley, After Six and Munginella. Be sure to climb Munginella very early in the day. Do not follow another team because it is so easy to roll rocks off of the top.

At Tuolumne, Northwest Books is fun, and Zee Tree is good slab fun with a gnarly last pitch. Holdless Horror may be clear by June.

+1 for Royal Arches, a truly awesome route.

Yup. It has been a pretty good snow year (compared to the last few anyway). Here's the daily snow depth from Tuolumne Meadows and Dana Meadows -

cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs…
cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs…

Statewide summary -

cdec.water.ca.gov/cdecapp/s…

But it's still anyone's guess when exactly the road will open.

id say july at least the mountain is reporting 540 inches of snow this year and the hits are still coming.

If the road is open the by all means go!!! Don't let snow fall reports change your plans. You would be surprised how much you'll be able to do in late June, even with record winter snow falls.

Most dome's south sides will be excellent by then. Don't shy away from some of the longer approaches either as walking over the late season snow pack is a breeze. Just don't forget the sunblock!

The extra snow makes the descents even funner because you can just ski down on your shoes. If you get going too fast just dig your heals in or steer toward some sun cups.

Oh yah, one more thing. Do the Crescent Arch when its wet. It will be like doing it for the first time all over again.

Bitch'in. Love the Meadows! Wish I still lived there. Have fun!

Thanks for the continued input. We'll watch and wait for the road...

Matt Jesperson wrote:Some buddies and I are looking to climb in Yosemite Valley in June. The routes will be easy/moderate (i.e. Matthes Crest, Snake Dike on Half Dome, Cathedral Peak, Stately Pleasure Dome, etc.). Is late June too early for these routes and the approaches? Any other multi-pitch routes you would recommend for this time of year. Trad 5.8 and below. Thanks, Matt

Bishop's Terrace (Church Bowl area) is an excellent 5.8 but can get crowded. Braille Book (Higher Cathedral Rock) is excellent. Stiff hike up, fairly steep and sustained at the grade, and some of the best climbing to be found at the 5.8 level, IMO. After yu do the route, hike to the summit of Higher Cathedral and check out the views of El Cap.

It can be quite hot in Yosemite by that time of year. I would be disingenuous if I did not recommend going to Tuolomne instead.