Longs/Meeker/Martha condtions

Chris Wenker wrote:We had hoped to try a trip up there this coming weekend. So how much more fresh stuff did Tuesday's system add to the high country? How's it look like it's gonna bond to the existing snowpack? Lumpy and Eldo rock are probably also wet now? thx

We didn't get it to hard at my place. (ten minutes from eldo.) Unless the storm picks up again it will be climbable by weekend. I plan on climbing.

-Jon

Dougald MacDonald wrote: If I'm not mistaken, it's showing the line of Sister Sweetly

You read my mind, Dougald. I'm just hoping its still in when I get back in town on the 29th.

Is it Diamond season yet...?

Chris Sheridan wrote: You read my mind, Dougald. I'm just hoping its still in when I get back in town on the 29th.

Is that the line to the far right of Kevin's picture?

Chris Plesko wrote: Is that the line to the far right of Kevin's picture?

I think so, but I've never climbed it. I looked for it years ago and even while looking at the face couldn't say I knew for sure where Sister Sweetly went. Like may routes, you might not know until you actually start up the thing. Here's my best guess drawn in on Kevin's photo.

Likely route of Sister Sweetly.

I see one obvious chimney system that follows the described line midway up, but above and below there seems to be a lack of description.The Rossiter guide and Gillet guide both have very different descriptions of the route.

I think that's it, Chris. Kevin's original photo shows it slightly more clearly, though it doesn't look like there's much or any real ice in there. But after the big dump last night? Maybe in a couple of days? Hmmm....

I don't know anyone who has climbed it, but I've also heard rumors that it can ice up completely. Then again, Bob Culp once told me he climbed Hallett Chimney when it was water ice from bottom to top. I'd like to see that!

The Park = Field of Dreams.

Ryan -

that picture is what would be the first pitch, above that I couldn't see.

Anyone up there this past weekend? I'm going up there to hit Dreamweaver end of May and am curious as to the current conditions. Thanks!

Was up in the park sunday and today but no info on Dreamweaver/Dutchman as I was at Solitude Lake and Emerald Lake. Will post pictures later. Another storm today/tomorrow so I guess we'll see what happens. I really want to climb the Notch couloir when it ices up.

North Face, Long's Peak - 5/16/10.

Here's the North Face 2 days ago

Did Martha with Tyler H. today in superb and super fat conditions as described from last weekend. The snow was well consolidated after the past two days of sun with no other snow falling while we were up there. It looks like there is plenty of ice forming elsewhere in the Long's Peak Cirque.

East Face of Long's.

Lots of snow in Alexander's Chimney, but I can't tell if there was any ice. Evidence of wet/loose snow avalanches in Lamb's Slide and coming off the Notch Couloir.

Looks like there is ice on Stettner's Ledges.

Eighth Route with some visible ice towards the lower portion of the climb. Lots of loose/wet snow avalanche evidence from the Notch Couloir.

Looks like lots of snow in Dreamweaver. If the rest of the Cirque was any guide, the snow should be very consolidated, but not sure if there is any ice on the constrictions.

wow, that looks very snowy and wintery! I think it must be quite cold to climb up there right now. I think that skis would make for a more enjoyable outing than trying to climb with cold cold fingers! At least then you can schuss on back down!

Anybody go up to Longs/Meeker this past weekend? Looking specifically for Dreamweaver conditions. What's going on up there?!?!!!111one

I was guiding Martha's on Wednesday but v. high winds and some new, drifted snow made climbing and climbing conditions not very good. I wouldn't have recommended it in those conditions but have heard since then that it was "perfect" over the weekend. Strong winds again today here in Estes, snowing off and on since around 1pm here in town, can't even see the Park. Sure to be snowing more up there.

Is floatation needed at this point? I don't want to pack snowshoes or rent them, if it can be avoided.

Seems unlikely to need float at this point. We managed without going past the Loch today. Hopefully someone will chime in for sure about Chasm.

I was up there Sunday 23rd (Martha) and snow shoes were not required, in fact the conditions were great - but I would get an early start - I made it back down to the trees by about 11 AM and already the snow above treeline was like mashed potatoes and there is alot of it. Have fun. Alan-