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My Mind Is A Blank
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 30
votes
Routes in Main Crag
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"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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"Steeple" Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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All Holds Barred TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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College Rock Traverse 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V3 6A |
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Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exersize Left to the Reader T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fill in The Blank TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flunked Again TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grunge Gully Direct TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jocks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mal-triculation TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mantel V3 6A |
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Mike Doonesbury Returns TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pop Test T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Preppies TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Road Trip T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seven Sisters TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Techno-Dweeb TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wasted T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | [Henry Barber?] |
| Page Views: | 6,141 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Bjorn on Jul 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
My Mind Is A Blank is definitely the proudest climb on the main cliff of CR.
This route takes on the proud, scantly featured face beneath a looming roof. Climb good edges and crimp in tiny slots to static or dyno (dyno may be easier as the edges get polished) to the massive horizontal. From there use small pockets and slopers to position your self under the roof. Get your feet high and gun for the good jug at the lip, then crank to a small slopey slot and finish. If you were to lead the route, this is the point where you would hug the tree trunk and scamper to safety with heavy breathing and a palpitating heart.
NOTE: As of early October 2008, the partially fallen tree that had been used as a TR anchor has become a more fully fallen tree. Other trees and/or clean gear anchoring possibilities remain farther back from the cliff's edge, but the ease of double slinging the tree and toproping your heart out is now a thing of the past.
This route takes on the proud, scantly featured face beneath a looming roof. Climb good edges and crimp in tiny slots to static or dyno (dyno may be easier as the edges get polished) to the massive horizontal. From there use small pockets and slopers to position your self under the roof. Get your feet high and gun for the good jug at the lip, then crank to a small slopey slot and finish. If you were to lead the route, this is the point where you would hug the tree trunk and scamper to safety with heavy breathing and a palpitating heart.
NOTE: As of early October 2008, the partially fallen tree that had been used as a TR anchor has become a more fully fallen tree. Other trees and/or clean gear anchoring possibilities remain farther back from the cliff's edge, but the ease of double slinging the tree and toproping your heart out is now a thing of the past.
Protection
Most sane folks toprope this route. Trees and clean gear placements can be located and equalized atop the cliff.
The route CAN and HAS been led, however, and one look at the thing will show you that this is one of the coolest headpoints in the area, and I hope to climb it in that style at some point. A lead of this route, whether placing on lead or pink, warrants an R rating for sure, since your top piece would likely be a small cam under the roof and, in the event of a fall from the top, the system would likely only accelerate your impact into the face. If you know anyone who has led this route, you may feel compelled to kiss his or her feet.
The route CAN and HAS been led, however, and one look at the thing will show you that this is one of the coolest headpoints in the area, and I hope to climb it in that style at some point. A lead of this route, whether placing on lead or pink, warrants an R rating for sure, since your top piece would likely be a small cam under the roof and, in the event of a fall from the top, the system would likely only accelerate your impact into the face. If you know anyone who has led this route, you may feel compelled to kiss his or her feet.
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