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Routes in Central Gully
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Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spontaneous Order S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Straight, No Chaser T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Romain Wacziarg, April 27, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 3,867 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Romain Wacziarg on Apr 27, 2008 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Start to the right of the "Footprints" anchor, up slabs with 3 bolts and pass a prominent pine tree to its right. A #2 Camalot can be useful below the tree, and you can also sling the tree for added protection. A steep move (5.6) leads to easier climbing. Stay left at the top to exit directly onto Lunch Ledge. This is a varied pitch with interesting moves. It is a much better (and easier) way to access Lunch Ledge than ascending Snickerdoodle and rapping to the ledge.
Direct start variation: start in a gully about 10 yards to the right of the base of Footprints. Small gear and a bolt protect some low-fifth class moves to the start of the original route. This variation avoids the need to climb Footprints first. With this variation, the route is about 190 feet long.
WARNING: You cannot descend with one rappel (with a 60 meter rope) from Lunch Ledge to the base of Blue in Green. It is best to descent by rapping the gully to the right of Snickerdoodle, and then walk down to the anchors at the top of Footprints for the final rappel off the crag.
Direct start variation: start in a gully about 10 yards to the right of the base of Footprints. Small gear and a bolt protect some low-fifth class moves to the start of the original route. This variation avoids the need to climb Footprints first. With this variation, the route is about 190 feet long.
WARNING: You cannot descend with one rappel (with a 60 meter rope) from Lunch Ledge to the base of Blue in Green. It is best to descent by rapping the gully to the right of Snickerdoodle, and then walk down to the anchors at the top of Footprints for the final rappel off the crag.
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