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The Payment Plan
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 1.8 from 52
votes
Routes in No Money Down (Left)
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Coveted, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dung Beetle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Terms S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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False Modesty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mr. Popular S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Money Down S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Payment Plan, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Repossession S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rose Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Student Loan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Thou Shalt Not Covet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Truth in Advertising S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Dave Quinn, June 2004 |
| Page Views: | 2,032 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A newish route to the left of No Money Down... Pretty fun really but not my style... If you like sharp, powerful, bouldery climbing dig in...
Climb the moderate start up a juggy vertical face that is much like the start of No Money Down... The big difference between this climb and that one is that once you get to the roof this crux is about V5 rather than the V1 or V2 that gets you to the chains on No Money Down (5.10c)... A good jug before the roof lets you rest a little (though you might not need it) before pulling in to some powerful moves out a roof and a rounded bulge... The holds are sharp and keeping your feet on requires some core strength... There looks to be many options for a sequence through the crux... I've even heard that a knee bar is possible (but i havent found it), however you get it done, have fun with it...
I use an undercling left on the roof, then a pocket with a thumb catch right, to a pretty good but very sharp left hand hold and a big move with a right leg drop-knee to a crimp before getting my hands over the top via a couple smaller moves... Mantel to the ledge and clip the chains...
Climb the moderate start up a juggy vertical face that is much like the start of No Money Down... The big difference between this climb and that one is that once you get to the roof this crux is about V5 rather than the V1 or V2 that gets you to the chains on No Money Down (5.10c)... A good jug before the roof lets you rest a little (though you might not need it) before pulling in to some powerful moves out a roof and a rounded bulge... The holds are sharp and keeping your feet on requires some core strength... There looks to be many options for a sequence through the crux... I've even heard that a knee bar is possible (but i havent found it), however you get it done, have fun with it...
I use an undercling left on the roof, then a pocket with a thumb catch right, to a pretty good but very sharp left hand hold and a big move with a right leg drop-knee to a crimp before getting my hands over the top via a couple smaller moves... Mantel to the ledge and clip the chains...
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