Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Jeff Huebner, Darren Singer 1994
Page Views: 4,425 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Lord Humungous has been a cherished 5.11 at the Waterfall since it was first established. This all natural gear line features a face climbing direct start with gear options that seem to magically appear as you climb through it. This is followed up with a well positioned section of steep, juggy fingers through the crux of the route. Better climb it before it topples over!

Just to the right of Black and Tan. Work your way up to the splitter by either climbing the start of Black and Tan and traversing over, or you can opt for the more direct start which is a bit headier and checks in around .10d or .11a. Whichever way you choose, get to the splitter finger crack which winds it's way up the left side of the column past good jams, and a few well placed jugs. A hands/ wide hands (fists for some) crack takes you to the top of the pillar and a rest before the final bouldery section to meet up at the Black and Tan anchors. Save a  #.5 and #1 for the push to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

Right Side.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles up to #3. Bulk up on .3- .5 and bring a single set of small to medium wires if you’re doing the direct start.  2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners.

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