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Proud Mary
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.1 from 19 votes
Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Wright, Zimmerman, Tarrant FFA Stephen Nance and Shane Glazier , 2010 |
Page Views: | 3,872 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Aug 6, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Proud Mary may or may not be a work in progress. In its present form, it consists of three pitches, but two more await above. A final pitch would take a terrific position on the final dominant feature of MB. The linking pitch (P4), however, looks like it would require extensive cleaning and this may be enough to halt progress at three pitches.
In the current form, P1 is a very well protected slab, 100 feet, 5.9, on quite good stone. Double bolt anchor and chains get you to the ground.
P2 pulls a burly 5.11d right off the belay and remains hard for 30 feet. The midsection is a romp that leads to a devious rib that climbs more like an arete with micro-crimpers on both sides. The crimpers have seemed brutally hard so far, hence the A0. It is not clear how difficult this will be completely free, time will tell.
P3, still a project awaiting a no-falls red point burn. Climbing moves right on easy ground for 20 feet and fires up a lay-away seam that gets progressively more difficult. Very hard as the pitch nears the anchors. In the last trip through some possibilities started to emerge from the polished face on the right, so we are hoping that this pitch goes down free!!
Overall, PM climbs on stone typical of the BTC. It can be sharp in places, but is largely as solid as stone can get. I found myself still brushing off lichen in some spots. PM does differ from the routes on right side of the crag by getting good sun for most of the day.
In the current form, P1 is a very well protected slab, 100 feet, 5.9, on quite good stone. Double bolt anchor and chains get you to the ground.
P2 pulls a burly 5.11d right off the belay and remains hard for 30 feet. The midsection is a romp that leads to a devious rib that climbs more like an arete with micro-crimpers on both sides. The crimpers have seemed brutally hard so far, hence the A0. It is not clear how difficult this will be completely free, time will tell.
P3, still a project awaiting a no-falls red point burn. Climbing moves right on easy ground for 20 feet and fires up a lay-away seam that gets progressively more difficult. Very hard as the pitch nears the anchors. In the last trip through some possibilities started to emerge from the polished face on the right, so we are hoping that this pitch goes down free!!
Overall, PM climbs on stone typical of the BTC. It can be sharp in places, but is largely as solid as stone can get. I found myself still brushing off lichen in some spots. PM does differ from the routes on right side of the crag by getting good sun for most of the day.
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