Block Leading

Advantages/diadvantages of leading in blocks compared to swinging leads. Specific gear/rope requirements. System for block leading (rope management, rack, anchors, etc). Context is Grade III/IV multipitch free climbs, 2 people (Steck-Salathe, for example).

Discuss.

I like block leading. You get longer rests from lead stress and have more time to find your groove while you're on lead.

As for the specifics of rope management, I dunno... never really given it much thought. Flip the rope stack over before you start leading again.

That's what it seemed like to me, Scott, but I keep hearing/reading about these systems some climbers use where after the leader establishes an anchor, they will self-belay/rope-solo using another lead line while the follower self-belays/jugs the lower line, and other tricks of that nature. I guess my question is whether things like this pertain to regular multipitch free routes (ie not speed climbing, and with no one jugging).

Chris, forgive my ignorance, I have heard these techniques used for aid climbing but trad? Wouldn't you need to carry a ton of gear, you might not make contact with your belayer for 2,3 or 4 pitches to make a gear exchange.

I like block leading as well; the first time I employed it on a big route was last weekend in the Black Canyon; I led the first half of the route, through the crux pitches, and was able to stay in a nice lead headspace for a while. Once I hit the big ledge above my last lead, it was all gravy from there since my partner was leading the more moderate finishing pitches. Definitely favorable mentally. Physically it was nice as well; I got just enough rest after each pitch to be ready for the next, but didn't "cool down" too much - I've had that happen when swinging leads with slower partners. The best part was being able to totally camp out at that big old ledge after my last lead; at that point I was pretty well knackered form a lot of demanding climbing, and I got to de-shoe, snack, drink, and hang out through my partner's follow and subsequent lead.

as for rope managment, i just try to stack it nicely and then flip it over on my second when it's time to take off. gear exchange is no different than when swinging leads.

as for the self-belay/jugging thing, i'm only familiar with that as a tactic on climbs where speed is either an absolute necessity or the goal.

You don't need another lead line for short-fixing. Just use the slack left over from the previous pitch.

However, unless you are speed climbing, I think this is not really necessary. Leading in blocks can already be much faster than swinging leads without this trick. The burden is on the second to climb faster. When leading in blocks, the second can rest at the belays, and so he should be moving at top speed while climbing.

IMO, the biggest areas to look to cut time are:

• Building anchors. It should only take a minute or two to build a good solid anchor. This is a skill that can be practiced on the ground with a stopwatch. After you build the anchor, your top priority should be to get off of belay, pull up rope, and put your partner on belay. You can get comfy after they start climbing!
• Change-overs. Another couple of minutes to swap gear.
• Eating and drinking. Get an auto-locking device and eat/drink while belaying the second.

• If you expect you will need a wind-breaker while belaying, tie it around your waist when you are climbing. It is faster than digging through a pack for it.
• If there is large gear that the leader doesn't need on a particular pitch, have the second carry it on the back of their harness.

In my experience, I have used block leads for routes where several pitches in a row are at my partner & my limit. That way, we each get a rest between runs. It can be tough to follow a full pitch near your limit, then keep the gravy train going for another full pitch on the sharp end. I would say block leading is faster for segments such as this, in my opinion.

I swing leads when the climbing is mellow and doing 300' or so of climbing is just enjoyable.

But its just personal preference. Rope management and gear exchanges arent too big of a deal for either method.

In response to the jugging etc question. This could be done for free climbing routes, but what a pain it would be, in my opinion. Each climber would have to climb but also give out/take out slack depending on if they were following or leading. Seems cumbersome for free climbs, but I think its standard for aid lines.

Whichever method you find works best for you, just be safe :o)

Realize when you're sketched, you move slower. Short fixing works well when aid climbing because you're already moving slow on lead, and once the rope is short fixed, the second can jug at standard speed and get you back on belay (and replenish your gear) pretty fast. Not so when using these tricks free climbing. Leader will be sketched rope soloing and thus climbing slower, and follower will be sketched, following slower. Keep it simple, get stronger, and the speed will come.

In terms of rope management, butterfly that sucker neatly over the length of rope you're tied in with. When your partner arrives next to you and ties in, simply flip the works onto his tie-in length of rope. Learn how to hand over gear fast. Gear slings are the fastest, whether you like to lead with them or not (then again, if you lead substantially slower with a gear sling vs. on the harness racking, then do the necessary switchover toot sweet).

Block leading works because the leader gets into a set "lead mode" and thus rails a bit faster up the climb. Likewise, the follower knows that at the end of cleaning a pitch that he or she gets to rest again, so they can go full out speed-wise while cleaning the pitch. Who cares if they get to the belay fully gased, they now get to recover while the leader is off climbing the next pitch.

Leader should carry some water (super small camelbak is the best) so he/she can hydrate when it's best for them, not just when the second makes their way up there with the relatively larger camelbak. Bring lots of GU's so you can keep your caloric intake constant.

The biggest hindrances for me when trying to get a longer route done fast are climbing skill and caloric deficiencies, in that order.

What else? I tend to use sliding-X for anchors as much as possible if speed is an issue and gear is good. 2 pieces, sliding-x, tie-in, off belay, [maybe look for possible 3rd anchor piece], pull up slack, rig autoblock, belay on, start hydrating/eating in prep for next pitch.

One thing to that helps when butterflying the rope is to start with small loops and gradaully make them bigger this helps avoid tangles.

I would block lead only if there is lots of climbing at my limit, other wise it is much faster to arrive at the station, stay on belay, grab the extra gear and go. I feel like with block leading you almost have to build an anchor with a cordalette to get that good power point. I do NOT like cordalettes. I like to use the rope for anchors, if you build with the rope, switching it over can be much more of a pain. I think I really do not like the cordalette because I hate to coil it back up after breaking down an anchor. Plus, when my leader is almost to the end of the pitch, I will simplify the anchor down to one solid piece sometimes, so when he says on belay, I can start climbing right away, I hate to sit up and wait for my second to start climbing, have your shoes on, the station cleaned, and be ready to climb.
Big drift, sorry, I would rather swing with a competent partner.

Rick Blair wrote:Chris, forgive my ignorance, I have heard these techniques used for aid climbing but trad? Wouldn't you need to carry a ton of gear, you might not make contact with your belayer for 2,3 or 4 pitches to make a gear exchange.