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Routes in Westwind Buttress
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Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13 |
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Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grumpy Old Men T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | D. Forgeng, S. Ohkawa, 24 April, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 2,893 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | mountainsense on Apr 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Separation Anxiety ascends an improbable line of spectacular, in-cut diorite knobs through the center of the Perseverance Wall. The boldness of this ground-up, first ascent cannot be overplayed; having never drilled--ever, Dan, aka "Little," aka "Strong," continued upward, into the unknown, and the uncleaned... Execute big moves between spaced chickenheads, passing two bolts, careful to keep the separation anxiety at bay! Launch into the upper slab, using a few long runners to sling the diorite--hang a few of those big cams from having warmed up on Check the Technique to keep them from lifting! The climbing here eases up significantly but remains fun and engaging the entire way. Clip the third--and last--bolt, pass a shallow, bottoming horizontal near the top of the slab, then trend right--toward the shared sling anchor atop Check the Technique. Rap or lower--beware of rope drag across the slab!
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