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Nearing the top.

Id# 106745592,  Dimensions: 826 x 1200 - View full size 

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2012
By rogerbenton
Mar 4, 2012

that sling/biner situation looks scary.

By David Stowe
May 22, 2012

Looks like a tripled up runner that just wasn't pulled tight. It would be fine with any downward pressure on the biner. Nothing really scary about it.

By slim
Administrator
May 23, 2012

i don't agree with david's assessment at all. this doesn't look fine. given that the longest loop is the one around the gate, there is a good chance that the legs of the loop are going to be the tighest strands around the other biner (ie when it gets loaded it has a good chance of tightening the loop and opening the gate, which is never 'fine').

By ericcr
May 24, 2012

you're right, slim. if a leader at his limit were to fall on that piece, that carabiner would snap like a pretzel.

By David Stowe
May 24, 2012

Since Dennis took this picture I assume that he led the pitch. The climb is not at or near his limit. Not sure how you deduce that the biner is going to snap in half. The climbing also eases on that pitch the higher you go. You guys are really missing the point. Look at the excellent color coordination between shoes, shirt, rope and biners as well as the excellent composition.

By ericcr
May 25, 2012

i wish that Dennis would pay as much attention to how he clips his ancient carabiners as he pays to coordinating his climber's outerwear.

By slim
Administrator
May 25, 2012

this reminds me of the argument that comes up when somebody has the rope behind their leg. "well, the climbibg is easy there, so it doesn't matter". if you can't take care of details when the climbing is easy, what makes you think you will be able to do so when the climbing is hard?

By S. Neoh
May 25, 2012

Ancient biners?
To me, these look like WC Helium Clean Wire, circa 2010.
www.wildcountry.co.uk/products/karabiners/helium-clean-wire/

By David Stowe
Jun 29, 2012

I am all for safety and pointing out serious issues, but people are also way over critical and get all worked up over some things that while not 100% picture perfect are fine.

In the case here people are calling out ancient biners which are two years old at most. The condition of a sling as really sketchy when you are looking at a snap shot of someone on TR, not on lead, and you don't know the condition of the piece on lead. Having said all that I still think that that the sling would catch a lead fall just fine. If you want to criticize some anchors look at the snap shots that a guide put up the other day from Peterskill. I didn't think that you could screw up a TR anchor off of bomber bolts, but I was wrong.

By SethG
Jul 2, 2012

I think you guys are missing that ericcr was joking, poking fun at Denis.

By David Stowe
Jul 3, 2012

My bad then. That is the draw back of the internet. Hard to tell if someone is joking, serious, sarcastic, etc.

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Avg Score   5.0 from 4 votes
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Nearing the top.

Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 27, 2010
On this route:
Simple Suff (5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b )