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Mar 6, 2014
The climber has finally arrived at the stem rest on the real Bat Crack. If you do not do this section of the climb, then you have not really done the full Vampire. The crack here is solid .10d, and it adds significantly to the entire route. Supplement the rack with extras in the 1" to 1 1/4 inch size for the steep corner pictured below the stem. RP's are handy above, along with (2) #2 Camalots. The crack gets pretty pumpy above the perfect hands part, and the locker fingers below the lone bolt help...Have a medium stopper ready below the bolt, because clipping it can be a bit scary when you crank on those slightly sloped railt with the right. The trick to getting past the bolt is to shuffle that left hand jam in, thumbs up, as you crank those rails with the left and friction the feet up...its a bit overhanging here, but when you get settled into the crack, all is better. The mantle at the belay (5.11a) is easy to turn, but a bitch to stand on because the wall is in your face...spoiler alert...Don't read this if you want the "On Sight"...turn the mantle with the left and scan the face above at about 2 O'clock for a tiny black crimper...nail that and reef it for all its worth to stand. This move is prroly protected, and if a sling is hanging, well, grabbing that is "aid" so be happy ts there, clip it and do the mantle with no fears of slamming into the dihedral below. I've done it with and without the sling there, and I guarantee you it is a lot easier on the mind to have that clip in!!