All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part D - Xa…

Crazy Fingers

Name: Crazy Fingers
Rating: 3.8

5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British PG13

Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express

L › R R › L A › Z

	Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hang Ten T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Henry Chinaski T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tampon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, date?
Page Views:	5,649 total · 27/month
Shared By:	Adam Brink on May 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen.

Location

This thin crack beauty lies to the right of Parallels and Foxtrot. After finishing the last crux and locking the perfect finger jam, [you used to have to] traverse left and up past the top of Foxtrot to the Parallels anchors.

Per Joseph Crotty: now there is a 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

It blows my mind that Guerin and Horan lead this without small Aliens and offsets. Those boys were, well, tough! Now days, the lead is not so severe. Only a small runout from a piece at the first ledge to the next jug and good piece gives this any spice (and the climbing is easy there). After that, it is small cams and RPs. This now has a 2 bolt anchor.