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Offwidths... are not chimneys!

matt davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 25

I would argue for it to be a chimney, a reasonable sized person would naturally climb it in chimney style- feet, back, palms, chin hooks, etc, inside the crack, like an old-timey chimney sweep, for which the technique is named. It makes no sense to climb with most of your body OUTSIDE the chimney. Wingin' it is off-width technique, technically, or else "chimney" has no meaning.

Jim Gloeckler · · Denver, Colo. · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 25

It's also body size related. What is an offwidth for me (I'm fat and old) might just be a chimney for Beth Caldwell. Same goes for hand cracks and finger cracks! And no, don't even go there!

Samuel Scott Ackerman · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

My question is: "Who the f*** cares?"

Im so tired of the elitist climbing crowd interjecting their 2 cents into every little facet of the sport. What does it matter what its called? I only have two names i use to describe any given climb. They're either "Good" climbs or "Bad" climbs.

Next forum topic: -Rails... are not crimps
-Chips... are not jibs
-Flakes... are not jugs
-Fairies... are not real

Take your pick.

Greg DeMatteo · · W. Lebanon, NH · Joined May 2007 · Points: 315
Samuel Scott Ackerman wrote:My question is: "Who the f*** cares?" Im so tired of the elitist climbing crowd interjecting their 2 cents into every little facet of the sport.
Does this mean you're part of an elitist posting crowd interjecting your 2 cents into every little aspect of these topics?
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

don't fairies wear boots? they must be real, i see them in boulder all the time.

Braden Downey · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 110
Greg DeMatteo wrote: Does this mean you're part of an elitist posting crowd interjecting your 2 cents into every little aspect of these topics?
i'm even more sick of people just trying to piss eachother off from the comfort of the internet
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,705

Offwidth- bigger than my fist, smaller than I can get my entire body into. If I can't get my body in, it's not a chimney.

I am going to go back and check/edit all of the OW/Chimney routes I put on this DB to reflect that. I've entered over 1000 routes, so there should be a fair number of OW/Chimney ones.

If you want, you can count the number of route descriptions on the site with my definition Vs yours. As you put it: 'You can disagree, but you are still wrong.'

An Aside: There is that special class of chimney, however, called a squeeze chimney, right? That's where you can get in, but have to choose not only which side goes in, but also which way your head faces, because you can't turn it around!

Tyler King · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,385
widefetish.com/pages/how_to…

"Offhands: Beyond Finger Cracks is a size that is extremely hard to jam, offhand cracks. These vary from just past finger locks to just before good hand jams."

"Offwidth: Past the wide fistjam is the offwidth. Offwidth is quite strenuos..."

"Chimneys and Squeeze Chimneys: A chimney is a crack wide enough to accept the body. A squeeze chimney is one just wide enough."
Tim M · · none · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 293

If Santa can't get down it, it's not a chimney!

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,960
Chris D wrote:Here is me in a chimney AND and off-width. vimeo.com/10769406 Take notes, there will be a quiz. :)
I'm confused on what we're taking note of
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Everyone's right but Beagle. Sorry dude. But then, maybe you have really big elbows, which would explain everything.

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230
Ryan Kelly wrote: I'm confused on what we're taking note of
Bad technique, flailing, and knowing when it's time to start mixing in a few salads.

I didn't know I was being filmed and was initially mortified when I saw the video, but after the third or fourth time watching it I thought it was worth sharing for a laugh.

I look for all the world like a tourist someone hoisted on the rock and said "go."

Plus, there's nothing like augmenting a stupid argument with stupid footage.

Oh, and it's 5.8, not 5.6, though I tried to make it look like 5.10.

Right after we finished the climb (The Flake, on Intersection Rock in Joshua Tree) I got to watch a guy lead through this section in about 30 seconds. Humbling!
Eric Krantz · · Black Hills · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 420
slim wrote:don't fairies wear boots?
you must be smokin' and trippin'
Colin Kenneth · · Fort Collins, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 280

what a dumb reason to start a topic.

Way to impose yourself on others because they do not adhere to your beliefs.

Why don't you start a mission and teach the loin cloth sporting savages about your gods of climbing vernacular, lest you be forced to mercifully infect us with small pox.

Sorry if that is distasteful. But F***, man. Lighten up, and figure out that it doesn't matter.

Say you are talking to someone who remarks on an OFFWIDTH. it takes 5 seconds to clarify what size they are talking about, yet you've taken the time from all of our days to tell us how inconvenienced and bothered we make you.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Eric Krantz wrote: you must be smokin' and trippin'
'cuz that's all i do....

alllll rrrrriiiigggghttt!!!!'

(insert some air guitar!)

the dude up a ways seems to have off hand confused with off fingers, in my book anyway...
colin tucker · · Monticello, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 35

good topic!

Jason Kaplan · · Glenwood ,Co · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 3,370

I beg to differ, go climb the by gully on castle rock in boulder canyon. Heinous OW/squeeze chimney.

James Beissel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 905

Beagle - I think I just realized who you are...
Did you find your handholds on the porch during the ice fest?

If you make it to the Front Range and want to climb some wide stuff give me a shout. Join in on Tuesday Night Offwidths and we'll call it Tuesday Night Chimneys just for you...unless the route is actually an offwidth.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,705

"One Man's Thrash is Another Man's Pleasure"

Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,275
GabeO wrote: Maybe the OP doesn't know what a chicken-wing is?
Thats hilarious
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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