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The rope shows the basic line you want to take when climbing u-slot. Note the black center mark on my 70m rope. It's a good 20 to 30 feet up.

Id# 106723770,  Dimensions: 2000 x 1500 - View full size 
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By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Apr 9, 2010

When I led this route, I used the crack on the arete to the the right of the shown route. That created a very heady runout section. Anyone know which is the correct way?

By Frank T
Apr 10, 2010

Both. from what I'm told, you can go either way. we stayed on the side of the corner. it's a "bit" more protected. once you get to the top of the corner/aerate it's about a 60 foot runout till you get to the overlap. Also, if you tread left once past the corner/aerate, you will find a water grove that you can follow up and left then traverse right back to the "slot".

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 12, 2010

Ross Purnell wrote:
When I led this route, I used the crack on the arete to the the right of the shown route. That created a very heady runout section. Anyone know which is the correct way?

If you want anything close to 5.7 climbing, using the left-facing corner/flake is the way to go. That part of the route is well-protected, in contrast to climbing right of the corner.

JL

By Matt Westlake
Apr 12, 2010

I felt pretty good about climbing straight up on top of the feature. I think you end up with pretty good gear if you kind of hug the arete and in fact end up with the same final piece before the runout. There's one thin friction area that is a little scary (protects with a marginal TCU/C3) before that last good placement, but then again I thought the move when climbing up from under the corner onto the face was pretty polished. Regardless, welcome to Stone. Home of: "if it ain't groundfall, we don't need a bolt yet" climbing.

Also, I tend to aim left towards that little notch during the runout - you get a few pieces in on easy ground before the you pull the roof feature. I've always thought that notch was the "U" in U-Slot.

By George Heib
Oct 2, 2010

Matt, that is what we thought as well, but the route makes no sense after that roof U slot when making way to the anchors...the bigger and much easier pull below the anchors looks much more feasible and the feet below that makes the runout much less intimidating. I would have to say if the small U slot was the right way then the anchors should be moved left about 30 feet. I would say that there is no right or wrong way here...the small U slot makes this route much more stout than the easier path of resistance. I myself chose the least path while I seconded because of the crazy looking pendulum so I cleaned gear and down climb/traversed over to the easier ground.

By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 12, 2010

The smaller U-slot is the proper crux of the route. The "anchors" in question are mostly for rapping, not belaying.

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The rope shows the basic line you want to take when climbing u-slot. Note the black center mark on my 70m rope. It's a good 20 to 30 feet up.

Submitted By: Frank T on Apr 8, 2010
On this route:
U Slot (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 )