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What do you use for Cragging?

Original Post
Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

I just got back from my first trip to the Red and besides a lack of endurance, the one thing I noticed I was really missing was a good backpack for hauling my stuff to the crag. My gear rack is as follows:

-60m Petzl 9.8mm
-Harness
-20 draws
-3 pairs of shoes
-3L camelback
-Chalkbag
-A small rubbermaid with lunch
-Guidebook
-Small camera
-Maybe some stow loops on the side for the stick clip

And sometimes the 20 draws are changed out for a standard size trad rack.

Any ideas what pack might suit me well? I saw a couple people with roll-top waterproof bags like the Seal Line backpacks, but it wasn't a SealLine bag, just can't remember the company. I have an Osprey backpack for backpacking and like the good support of that backpack, but its a bit too big at 70L to just go cragging with.

mtnkid85 Mershon · · MT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 25

Take a look a Cilogear work sacks. Ive got the 40l and the 40b, they are the best Alpine/craggin packs Ive seen, I love them. They are fairly stripped down packs, with out alot of gizmos and gadgets!

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364

I use the Osprey Talon 33. It has more than enough space if you pack well. If I am sport climbing I usually will just carry the rope separately in a rope bag since it is hard to get into the pack. If I am trad climbing, the rope goes in the pack without a bag (fits easily). I have gotten the rope in (mine is 70m) and a small rack... if I need a larger rack I will usually be splitting some of the gear with my partner anyway.

I find 33L is more than enough space for a single day of climbing. Also, for multi-pitch trad lines where you don't end up back at the base, the pack is light and compresses well, so it is easy to climb with it on.

It is made as a super light backpack for multiple purposes. Mine is looking pretty beat up after a few years of being dragged through chimneys, etc. but it is still holding up reasonably well.

70L pack seems way too large. I find 33 more than adequate. With my trad rack I usually only carry one pair of shoes. For sport, I sometimes carry two... never tried carrying 3, but even with and extra pair of shoes, I can't imagine wanting more than 40L.

Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

The reason I want to fit my rope in the backpack is just for ease of walking and comfort. I carried my rope in a rope bag all trip with my stuff crammed in my backpack and it was really uncomfortable hanging around my neck in that Metolious bag.

Ty Harlacker · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 231

I have a Ice45 by Mammut. I use it for my all-around crag pack. It will hold 1-60 meter rope
2.Harness, Belay device, slings.
3.Draws (12)
4.Various Pieces 3 down to .3 4 4TCUs So, about Twelve pieces.& 15 small nuts.
5. 1.5 liter nalgene
6.Helmet
The lid still has pockets for headlamps, gloves, camera, and will still have room for a small snack.
7. Two pairs of shoes and chalkbag
Can carry rope outside the pack with the ropestrap on the top.

Carried up to 70 lbs in it and does great!

BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400

I've been a big fan of Osprey for a few years now. I have an Argon for backpacking and an Switch 20+5 for backcountry riding (actually used it for a 3 week backpack trip through Europe too).

I picked up one of these a couple weeks back and have really liked its simplicity. It would fit everything on your list and then some.

Osprey Mutant 38

I feel like I work for them now...

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364
Mark Kauz wrote:The reason I want to fit my rope in the backpack is just for ease of walking and comfort. I carried my rope in a rope bag all trip with my stuff crammed in my backpack and it was really uncomfortable hanging around my neck in that Metolious bag.
If there is a longer approach and I am still sport climbing, I have found a good solution is to ditch the rope bag, pack the rope in the pack, and pack in a small tarp. Putting the rope in a rope bag makes it far harder to pack and then requires a bigger pack. With the rope packed directly in the bag and a tarp, a 33L bag is more than enough... maybe go as big as 40L if you want it in the bag or if you really need extra room (3 pairs of shoes maybe). With my 33L, if I pack a fleece and a jacket, then sometimes my helmet has to go on the outside... a 40L would avoid that.
Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

i'm really happy w/my Black Diamond Demon

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

it has everything i need and nothing i don't for a day of cragging and/or a day of multi-pitch/alpine with a long approach.

if you're looking for other ways to lighten your load and reduce pack size, you may want to consider whether you can get by on 2L of water instead of 3. i used to carry 3 and found that, except for the hottest mid-summer days, i really only needed 2.

and, i have to ask, why do you carry 3 pairs of shoes? i'm not trying to give you a hard time but that struck me as odd. i've not been to any areas where the climbs varied so significantly that more than one pair was needed. again, not trying to give you a hard time...just soemthing to consider.

Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65
BackCountry wrote:I picked up one of these a couple weeks back and have really liked its simplicity. It would fit everything on your list and then some. I feel like I work for them now...
I might have to look at that. I also do ice in the winter and maybe this would be a great thing for both. Does anyone have any experience with the Gregory Tarne? Its 36 L, and Joe Kinder was telling me that he designed it for sport climb cragging. I just didn't know how big to go.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Will Anglin wrote:I have been very impressed with my Mountain Hardwear 'Dihedral' pack. It fits everything as perfectly as you can really expect. Good organization for your small stuff, a roomy brain, Good compression straps. I can fit a rack (trad or sport), 70m rope, shoes (1-3 pairs), harness, food, layers, guidebook, camera, hydration bladder, etc. and with the compression straps you can easily add another rope and or helmet. It is pretty burly as well, that white tarp stuff is hefty, but still pretty light.
+1. Just got the same pack. 40 liters. More than enough room. Super burly. My last pack (not mountain hardware fell apart in less than two years)
Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65
Crag Dweller wrote:and, i have to ask, why do you carry 3 pairs of shoes? i'm not trying to give you a hard time but that struck me as odd. i've not been to any areas where the climbs varied so significantly that more than one pair was needed. again, not trying to give you a hard time...just soemthing to consider.
I actually probably don't need the three pairs of shoes anymore. I used two because I had one super aggressive pair that wasn't good for smearing, and the smearing pair had no good edges. I finally made enough money to afford some good new shoes so I probably could get one pair of shoes and be okay. It was a legitimate question. Also, I don't fill my CamelBak all the way up either, so thats one thing.

So am I the only one that wants to put a rope in my pack? I guess that seems to be the main thing that I wouldn't be able to fit.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

he he, a small rubber, made with lunch.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Mark Kauz wrote: So am I the only one that wants to put a rope in my pack? I guess that seems to be the main thing that I wouldn't be able to fit.
I used to do that until I started using a rope bag, which I'll either sling over my shoulder and tighten it against my chest or clip it to the backpack so it hangs below it. Once I started using a rope bag, I went to smaller packs. Now that I don't have the option of putting it inside, I strap it over the top when I'm doing alpine/multi-pitch routes and it doesn't make sense to carry a rope bag.

But, I have friends who still put their ropes inside (they tend to have 40-45L packs). They've been climbing for a long time so I don't think they'd still be doing it if one way was better than the other. I think it's just a matter of preference.
Nate-R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 5

I use the Arc'Teryx Miura 50 for cragging, and it's great. There is a pretty thorough review here at MP, if you're interested.

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

The 'drawbridge' opening allows you to pack it like any other pack, then just splay it open and get to whatever gear you want--without unpacking everything else. The suspension is really nice as well; I've never been uncomfortable while carrying it. It's a great option for cragging. Definitely get it on sale, though--the price is quite steep at MSRP.

I typically carry in my Miura 50:
-60m 9.4 rope
-Double C4 rack
-2 sets of wires
-15 slings with biners
-Cordelettes, slings and other anchor gear
-Lunch
-Rain gear
-Shoes

and other assorted stuff, with room to spare still.

Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65
Nate-R wrote:I use the Arc'Teryx Miura 50 for cragging, and it's great. The 'drawbridge' opening allows you to pack it like any other pack, then just splay it open and get to whatever gear you want--without unpacking everything else. The suspension is really nice as well; I've never been uncomfortable while carrying it. It's a great option for cragging.
I like this a lot. A lot a lot. I will have to save my money up for this, but I won't be heading back to the Red until the fall, so this might be the thing to shoot for. Thanks for the help. Keep the suggestions coming though, its really helpful.
Tazeus Steyskal · · woodland park, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

The L.L.Bean bigelow day pack is really good for the price, about
$60, really durable, I have thrashed mine pretty soundly, and has a lid so, that is good for the rope.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

I really like my Gregory pack. I got a fairly large one cuzz I often have to carry a lot of gear for new routing, but it works well for cragging too. It has a zipper to open up the bottom, which is handy when I just want to grab maybe a few draws to add to my friend's rack, but not haul everything out of the pack. There is plenty of room for carrying my rope rolled up in a rope bag inside. Carrying the rope out of the pack is uncomfortable and a PITA. I would say get a bigger sack than you initially think you need. It will last better not being over stuffed all the time and for those days when you have to carry more weight the better suspension of a pack like the Gregory will be a real pleasure. I have carried a 250 ft static rope, full rack, drill, extra batteries, cleaning and bolting kit, bolts, chain, draws, harness, shoes, clothes, water clippers, shovel, crowbar etc in my Gregory and been fairly comfortable once I managed to get it on my back. When I go light I just cinch it in. I do also have a really light weight Gregory, but I mostly use it when I am bouldering, gym climbing or need to take it up on a climb.

tenpins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 30

something in the 30-35L range. Bells and whistles abound from various manufacturers. Packs are a right of life. Im constantly buying a selling packs.

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0
this bad boy

~40L carries my rope (9.8x60) in a rope bag, 10 draws, pretty much a double rack, harness, shoes, helmet, jacket, nalgene and some food with a pocket in the lid for phone, wallet, keys, camera ,etc. The toughest material you will get on a pack. Some daisy chains on the outside should you need them and everything (straps, etc) pack away if you want to haul it. Love it.
Brooks Henry · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 685
Crag Dweller wrote:i'm really happy w/my Black Diamond Demon blackdiamondequipment.com/e…
Just got one of those today, loaded it up and it can hold everything except my rope,but that's okay.plus,it comes with a rope tarp....

scratch that,got the demon DUFFEl, works just as well though
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Mark Kauz wrote:The reason I want to fit my rope in the backpack is just for ease of walking and comfort. I carried my rope in a rope bag all trip with my stuff crammed in my backpack and it was really uncomfortable hanging around my neck in that Metolious bag.
Bottom line - ANY 30-60 liter backpack will be a huge improvement over that system. Buy what's on sale/pretty color/comfortable.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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