South face route of Zoro

Anyone done this route and have any beta?

Did 2nd ascent many years ago.
If you can find the start, the rest of the climb is very straight forward. I think finding the start was a little inobvious. Get a hold of a copy of the Az Highways, it has a pic of the starting pitch and I think that was what helped us get oriented. The pitch is somewhat intimidating but then like many fine canyon adventures, it turns out to go with out much trouble.

The 5.10 bit on this climb is there only because one of the 1st ascent party insisted they do this short 20-30 ft section in order to hang a 5.10 rating on the climb. Unfortunately, on the FA, the leader spent so much time on it that it left George Bain to lead the real crux in the fading light of sunset. We did do the short 5.10 corner, Jim Haisley fired it in about 10 minutes. Ross Hardwick third classed around it and took photos while Tim Coats and I followed. If it was 10, it was moderate at most. My recollection is that it was only 5.9 but that could easily be the ego of the second.

The true crux is the Killer Twilight Traverse. It's probably acurately rated at 5.9 but given everything, it's not really for 5.9 leaders. Pro is sparse, you can get something like a #3 RP in the middle of the crux traverse move but you wouldn't want to test it. A fall could be a real serious thing given where you are. It's testy more because of position, gear and rock quality. While I doubt anyone would ever climb in the canyon bc with less than stellar partners, do be aware that following the pitch is almost the same as leading it. A fall wouldn't be as bad on the second but it wouldn't be much fun spooling into space and yanking on the belay on a crap strewn ledge. My recollection is that I felt the belay was just adequate ?

Last pitch is written up in the Az Highway thing as this horrendous chimney that took hours to lead. We found it to be a enjoyable 5.6 affair that was basically climbing up a knee butt with 2" footholds. It just goes to show that wide cracks depend a lot on (1) the way you face in the crack and (2) doing the pitch in day light. FA was doing it late at night with a flashlight in the mouth I think. (I talked with Bain about this years ago after we'd done the climb, well worth a session w/ him if you get the chance.

I'm sure it must have had other ascents but I've never heard of any. Not surprising, it's a big whole in the ground.

It's been pbbly 25+ years so take all of this with agrain of salt.

In my mind, the climb to do would be the rappel route. I believe the top truly wild pitch has been led.

Edited: My bad!-- didn't even notice the obvious "South Face" in the title.

This is an amazing summit that is well worth the effort it takes to reach it.
Have fun.

Thats a pic of the north east route isint it? Thanks paul for the report Planning on going down and feel it out, south face route sure does sound like a great adventure.

That topo looks pretty accurate if you want to trust my memory from (GADS) over 25 years ago. Like I said, the only real tricky route finding is the starting pitch and even that I seem to recall was pretty obvious because there was really only the one place that seemed like it would be a 5.8ish crawl.

I've put down what might be the line. Red or yellow, not too sure about. Blue, I'm pretty sure I've got that correct.
The traverse is cool because if you look up at the huge roof hanging over the belay and the pitch, you'll notice that it's full of fossils.

I'll see if might still have the original Az Highways rag and scan a pic in.

The article by Dave Ganci about the FA from AZ Highways, Nov. 1978

Bump for Roman's work on scanning.
Now you have the pic you need to find the first pitch.
I don't want to spoil the surprise, if I am even remembering it correctly, but the pitch is not as hard as it looks if you find the key moves.