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Hourglass Diversion
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 16
votes
Routes in Brownstone Wall
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Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Arms Reduction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corruption of the Jesuit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Immaculate Conception T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kentucky's Finest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Senior Dimensions T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Time's Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jorge and Joanne Urioste, John Rosholt 1978 |
| Page Views: | 4,867 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Apr 1, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
An awesome and exciting climb, with beautiful views of Juniper Canyon, especially Rainbow Wall!
Climbs the first two pitches of a climb called The Nightcrawler
(Jorge and Joanne Urioste route, FA, also in 1978).Pitches 3-5 are the climb Hourglass Diversion.
Pitch 1:
Climb up the low angle, broken up cracks on white rock. Protection scant on the initial moves, but climbing easy. Veer slightly left to catch a steeper crack. Follow the crack for a ways, then traverse about 8 feet left, to bolted anchor. (below the obvious varnished wide crack and chimney)165ft.
5.6
Pitch 2:
Climb and wiggle up the stellar chimney (you will find intermittent protection opportunities in the deep corner of the chimney). Climb up to a right facing corner to bolted anchor. 140ft.
5.9
Pitch 3:
Traverse right on a low angle ramp to the base of a thin, steep crack. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.
5.4
Pitch 4:
Climb up the thin crack. Protects well. Watch out for hollow flakes. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.
5.9
Pitch 5 and Pitch 6.
Climb the continuing crack system on varied climbing to the top. No fixed anchor. 270 feet. 5.8
From top of the route, hike and 3rd class up a bit, then head left to eventually end up at the Gunsight Notch descent.
Climbs the first two pitches of a climb called The Nightcrawler
(Jorge and Joanne Urioste route, FA, also in 1978).Pitches 3-5 are the climb Hourglass Diversion.
Pitch 1:
Climb up the low angle, broken up cracks on white rock. Protection scant on the initial moves, but climbing easy. Veer slightly left to catch a steeper crack. Follow the crack for a ways, then traverse about 8 feet left, to bolted anchor. (below the obvious varnished wide crack and chimney)165ft.
5.6
Pitch 2:
Climb and wiggle up the stellar chimney (you will find intermittent protection opportunities in the deep corner of the chimney). Climb up to a right facing corner to bolted anchor. 140ft.
5.9
Pitch 3:
Traverse right on a low angle ramp to the base of a thin, steep crack. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.
5.4
Pitch 4:
Climb up the thin crack. Protects well. Watch out for hollow flakes. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.
5.9
Pitch 5 and Pitch 6.
Climb the continuing crack system on varied climbing to the top. No fixed anchor. 270 feet. 5.8
From top of the route, hike and 3rd class up a bit, then head left to eventually end up at the Gunsight Notch descent.
Location
Approach as to Brownstone Wall.
Note: See beta photo by George Bell of Brownstone Wall.
Also see Gunsight Notch descent beta photo on same page, by Larry DeAngelo.
Climb starts down and right of the distinctive Hourglass feature on Brownstone Wall on white rock.
Descend (walk-off) the Gunsight Notch descent.
From the top of the climb it took us approx. 15 minutes to reach the start of the Gunsight Notch descent, then another 20 minutes or so, to our packs, near the base of the climb.
The Gunsight Notch descent is a blast in itself! There's a rap anchor (chock-stone) about two thirds of the way down, but you can do an easy butt slide down the hole instead. I suppose if there is more water flowing down, then you'd want to rap to avoid getting soaked in the hole and/or doing a "Slip-n-Slide."
Note: See beta photo by George Bell of Brownstone Wall.
Also see Gunsight Notch descent beta photo on same page, by Larry DeAngelo.
Climb starts down and right of the distinctive Hourglass feature on Brownstone Wall on white rock.
Descend (walk-off) the Gunsight Notch descent.
From the top of the climb it took us approx. 15 minutes to reach the start of the Gunsight Notch descent, then another 20 minutes or so, to our packs, near the base of the climb.
The Gunsight Notch descent is a blast in itself! There's a rap anchor (chock-stone) about two thirds of the way down, but you can do an easy butt slide down the hole instead. I suppose if there is more water flowing down, then you'd want to rap to avoid getting soaked in the hole and/or doing a "Slip-n-Slide."
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