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Routes in The Zoids
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Antithesis T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bonzoid Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Caucasoid Corner TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caucasoid Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Caucasoid Wall TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Corner Gas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Daddy Cool V2 5+ R |
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Face Full o' Bush T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall is in the Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat Finger Frenzy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lick Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Shoes TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Parabaloid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Peeled and Deveined TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Petting Zoo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poloroid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ruby, The V2 5+ |
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Sedated Racoon TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warren Piece TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Yellow Wave T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Young Wretches T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | [R Hanson TR '86, '89 led T Hanson & S Stills] |
| Page Views: | 892 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Mottinger on Apr 27, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
In the middle of the Zoids, between the Falls Wall and the Projects, is a bolted arete.
The climb starts off on a lower tier left of the yellowish arete, leading to a ledge and the arete. The crux of this route is getting to the first big ledge/ clipping the first bolt. The start is a good boulder problem in itself leading to easier climbing (despite a cactus) on the arete with obscure holds.
Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions for the same route consolidated to avoid confusion.
The climb starts off on a lower tier left of the yellowish arete, leading to a ledge and the arete. The crux of this route is getting to the first big ledge/ clipping the first bolt. The start is a good boulder problem in itself leading to easier climbing (despite a cactus) on the arete with obscure holds.
Eds. This is a combination of 2 submissions for the same route consolidated to avoid confusion.
Protection
7 QDs. The two bolt anchor on top is missing hangers, so the alternatives are to set up an anchor on top with or without the last bolt. A large sling is useful for the top anchor.
Per ClimbandMine: be prepared to top out if you lead it. You can place small gear in cracks as an alternate anchor.
Per ClimbandMine: be prepared to top out if you lead it. You can place small gear in cracks as an alternate anchor.
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