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> W Sedona
> Chimney Rock Area
> Grand Wazoo
Grand Wazoo
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.5 from 4
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | G. Parker, D. Bingham, Al Marshall, 1970's |
| Page Views: | 2,288 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Kole DeCou on Mar 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The Grand Wazoo is the spire between T. Rex and Summit Block Rock. This route is good, but it is not for a beginning Sedona climber like you would think by reading the Toula guide. The rock is solid though, and the climbing fun face climbing and lie-backing. The original 5.7 rating is defiantly a sandbag, and the pro is thin in spots. The route gets sun all day.
P1: 5.7 (sandbag) 60' Start at the base of the only crack to reach the ground on the southwest face. The first 20' are protected by thin nuts and micro cams. A committing lieback 40' up leads to a steep limestone bulge. Pull over on jugs and build a belay on the ledge. Belay takes fingers and a 3.5 Camalot. I thought this pitch was 5.9+.
P2: 5.7 (sandbag) 60' Continue up the crack (mostly face climbing) to the chimney slot. Just before the slot, face climb out right to a bolt (can't see it until you're there). Belay at a tiny tree on a ledge. I though this pitch was 5.9+.
P3: 5.7 30' Move the belay to the west face, and climb up an awkward hand crack, to easy face climbing and the summit. You have to down climb this pitch to get off.
Descent: The summit has no anchor, so down-lead the last pitch and walk back to the small tree. A 60-meter rope will just get you to scrambling distance of the ground with rope stretch. The tree is small and sketchy even by Sedona standards. As of 12/2011 there was a fixed nut to back up the tree.
P1: 5.7 (sandbag) 60' Start at the base of the only crack to reach the ground on the southwest face. The first 20' are protected by thin nuts and micro cams. A committing lieback 40' up leads to a steep limestone bulge. Pull over on jugs and build a belay on the ledge. Belay takes fingers and a 3.5 Camalot. I thought this pitch was 5.9+.
P2: 5.7 (sandbag) 60' Continue up the crack (mostly face climbing) to the chimney slot. Just before the slot, face climb out right to a bolt (can't see it until you're there). Belay at a tiny tree on a ledge. I though this pitch was 5.9+.
P3: 5.7 30' Move the belay to the west face, and climb up an awkward hand crack, to easy face climbing and the summit. You have to down climb this pitch to get off.
Descent: The summit has no anchor, so down-lead the last pitch and walk back to the small tree. A 60-meter rope will just get you to scrambling distance of the ground with rope stretch. The tree is small and sketchy even by Sedona standards. As of 12/2011 there was a fixed nut to back up the tree.
Location
Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante Road). Follow Andante trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. After a few hundred feet this will intersect a larger trail below Botany. Take a right and follow this trail all the way to below the Grand Wazoo. Scramble up to the base of the spire. The route starts about 100' left of the chimney between Grand Wazoo and Little Middle Pecker Pinnacle.
GPS: 34,52.974 N 111,48.066 W
GPS: 34,52.974 N 111,48.066 W
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