Dean following the wildly exposed traverse on Days of Heaven....

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Fern Canyon Rocks > Rock Of Ages > Days of Heaven (5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b)

Dean following the wildly exposed traverse on Days of Heaven....

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Approaching the crux step across on pitch 2.

The crux from above.

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4.4 from 9 votes

Guy H.

Mar 25, 2010

“Dean following the wildly exposed traverse on Days of Heaven....”

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Dean following the wildly exposed traverse on Days of Heaven....

The crux from above.

At the P1 belay. P1 climbs the roof at the slot right of the rightmost dead tree. Then up the left-leaning, left-facing corrner.<br>
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The belay is a bit problematic. Get directionals for your second, then move left about 10' and find a good pin at the level of the ledge. You can get in some good but not obvious pieces to back up the pin including a gold Camalot, big brass and a medium nut or Alien. Hang below all these on the slab.<br>
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Photo by Chuck Graves.

Steppin' out!

Jenny Antin making the improbable reach move on P2 of Days Of Heaven.

If you walk the finger crack, it's not at all strenuous. You can use the crack on the right for the first half. It is tricky getting gear in though, since you have to lean left to see into the crack.

Gary Ryan on Days of Heaven.

Gordon on the left start for P1. The jugs are out left.<br>
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Beta: you could probably get by with a rack up to a #2 Camalot. Doubles up tiniest to #1 Camalot are useful. Triples of yellow Alien/TCU size are helpful. Tiny cams are helpful in spots. A single set of wires is more than enough.

Sylvia Luebben leads P2 of 'Days In Heaven (10d)' on Rock Of Ages, in Estes Park, CO. Photo by Tony Bubb 08/'02.

Starting the upwards traverse. There are a few tricky moves with decent rests and gear until the step across.

Looking down at P2. Photo by Jeff G.

At the start of the hard part of pitch 3: wide fingers/thin hands/poor to no feet.

On pitch 2, switching cracks was the crux for me.

Looking up from base of route. Pitch 1 starts just left of leaning tree from top of boulder just right of leaning tree.

At the base of tthe final 10d thin hands crack. There's a decent rest here. The crux for me is stopping partway up the crack to get a piece in. Didn't feel secure enough to go for it, but it gets easier the higher you go with a couple spots you can get your foot into the crack.<br>
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Photo by Chuck Graves.

Getting gear before the step across. There is a good green Alien up and left from Chuck that TRs the step across for both the leader and the second. The second can remove the Alien after stepping across.<br>
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When you get here, the crack to the left looks impossibly far, but if you move up the right crack and reach diagonally down, it's within reach (for most people). Do the math... The shortest distance between 2 parallel lines (the 2 cracks are close to parallel) is the perpendicular between the lines. This means you need to reach diagonally down to the left crack.

Pitch 1 continues up the groove on the right. The ramp on the left goes to a petering crack....

Sylvia Luebben follows P1 of 'Days In Heaven (10d)' on Rock Of Ages in Estes Park, CO. Photo by Tony Bubb, August 2002.

A route overlay Days of Heaven.

Approaching the crux step across on pitch 2.

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