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The Middle Finger Tower
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A3-
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in The Land of Standing Rocks
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Middle Finger Tower, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3- |
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Sewing Machine Needle - The Treadle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Standing Rock: Chortler's Joy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton |
| Page Views: | 3,694 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Duncan on Aug 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
The route starts on the south side of the spire.
The original description:
Climb a short 5.8-9 dihedral to get to the good ledge (the knuckle). The route follows the obvious weakness above, which is a crack that start on top of a large square block and zig-zags up. Use some bird beaks, and thin to medium pins or clean aid to get to the shoulder. A couple of beaks in drilled holes get you close to the summit.
Newer/better description courtesy of Crusher (thanks!):
1. Climb crack in a dihedral, 5.8, to a small ledge, then a couple aid moves to a ledge/shoulder. Belay in rubble field, from pins and a single bolt (30', 5.8, A1).
2. Mantel onto block, then gain a left-angling crack that starts 15 feet above the bolt (tricky). There were no existing pin scars in this crack. Work up and left to 10-foot dihedral. Up this to rubbly shoulder. Build complex belay (might be safer, but less comfy, to belay from bomber cams in the dihedral below) (50', A3-).
3. Up to small roof, then short steep thin crack to mantel onto loose ledge. Angle left and up, past two drilled holes (pins in horizontals bypass the scary-looking holes), to free moves onto the summit (30', A2. 5.7).
Great summit. Lying on one's belly and peering over the northwest edge of the summit is highly recommended.
The original description:
Climb a short 5.8-9 dihedral to get to the good ledge (the knuckle). The route follows the obvious weakness above, which is a crack that start on top of a large square block and zig-zags up. Use some bird beaks, and thin to medium pins or clean aid to get to the shoulder. A couple of beaks in drilled holes get you close to the summit.
Newer/better description courtesy of Crusher (thanks!):
1. Climb crack in a dihedral, 5.8, to a small ledge, then a couple aid moves to a ledge/shoulder. Belay in rubble field, from pins and a single bolt (30', 5.8, A1).
2. Mantel onto block, then gain a left-angling crack that starts 15 feet above the bolt (tricky). There were no existing pin scars in this crack. Work up and left to 10-foot dihedral. Up this to rubbly shoulder. Build complex belay (might be safer, but less comfy, to belay from bomber cams in the dihedral below) (50', A3-).
3. Up to small roof, then short steep thin crack to mantel onto loose ledge. Angle left and up, past two drilled holes (pins in horizontals bypass the scary-looking holes), to free moves onto the summit (30', A2. 5.7).
Great summit. Lying on one's belly and peering over the northwest edge of the summit is highly recommended.
Location
This tower is located about 10 miles down the road to the Maze District of the Canyonlands NP. Turn north about a mile west of the bridge over Lake Powell, near Hite Marina, and follow the dirt road around Rock Canyon. The tower will be a couple of hundred yards from the road to the south, you can't miss it. The photo was taken from the road.
37.912921, -110.282106
Link to location in Google maps
37.912921, -110.282106
Link to location in Google maps
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