Mar 22, 2010
OK, so if you really love OW you should try these on for size. Much better position for sure. We tried it back when we were working on this wall but it was a truly burly day with an ice cold March wind giving us an ice cream headache all day. We bailed to drill Redneck Slab on lead but never went back. I'm certain these have never been done.
Traverse down and left from the anchors of Blue Collar Crack and then do the heinous OW/mantle into the crack. Then thrutch up and right along the main crack to the top of the buttress. I always imagined it would be cool to keep moving up and left where the water streak comes out. Imagination and reality frequently diverge for me. I'm not certain but I thought there was a chickenhead you could use to pull that lip? Would take at least one bolt, maybe more??
I also imagined connecting over to the finger crack that now has a ridiculous bolted belay. It takes fantastic gear and there is a belay at the top of the formation so if someone is motivated it might be nice to pull that anchor.