An option to climb from Red Ledge in two pitches with a 60m.

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lum… > Swanson Arete (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a)

An option to climb from Red Ledge in two pitches with a 60m.

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The top of Swanson Arete.

Second pitch, unknown climber.

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4.5 from 2 votes

Carl Dowdy

Mar 15, 2010

“An option to climb from Red Ledge in two pitches with a 60m.”

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Nearby Photos

Upper Lumpe Tower and Tower One on Redgarden Wall.

Getting down from Lumpe Tower and Tower One.
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Images from Google Earth (www.google.com/help/terms_maps/).

Belays and rappel stations.

More on getting down from Lumpe Tower and Tower One.
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Image from Google Earth (www.google.com/help/terms_maps/).

The awesome last pitch of Swanson Arete.

Chockstone Chimney rappel route. From the top of Upper Ruper, scramble uphill to a wide notch, then down the other side to two huge bolt hangers on the left wall of the chimney. A 100' rappel with a 60m rope takes you to the Upper Ramp; watch the ends of the rope.<br>
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To descend from here, go around the right (N) side of a short slab and traverse left on a ledge to the rappel tree for the Upper Ramp (Vertigo) rappel route. See the photo on the Redgarden Wall page for details.<br>
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The pocketed wall to the left is Body Tremors; around the corner to the right is Italian Arete.

Upper Ramp rappel route. From the base of Chockstone Chimney, hike up to the right side of the slab by a tree, then downclimb the slab to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge to a bolted rappel anchor. <high>This anchor was installed on August 21, 2006 to replace the anchor on the wobbling tree.</high> Rappel 65' to a stance with bolts and chains.<br>
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A second 95' rappel takes you to Vertigo Ledge. Follow Vertigo Ledge until it intersects the West Face trail.

Jenna Marie climbing with Joey from Colorado Mountain School. Photo by Brian Aitken.

E Slabs descent.

The top of Swanson Arete.

An option to climb from Red Ledge in two pitches with a 60m.

Second pitch, unknown climber.

A view of the final pitch from Swanson's Arete Proper. The best climbing on the route is up there! Note that the belay ledge (where I am seated) can be reached from the big tree on the red ledge easily in 1 pitch with a 60 meter rope. The ledge comes equipped with a perfectly sized shade tree, a great spot for a snack.

Swanson's Arete as viewed from near summit of Rewritten.

Downclimb to the notch between Lumpe Tower and Tower One (neither difficult nor overly exposed).

Unknown climbers on tower one photo by J.Wang.

A view of the Chockstone Chimney rappel anchor from above.

Blocky terrain.

View from the summit of Swanson Arete.

Nelson - Lumpe mid-area belay area going climber's right instead of left. From my comment, this is the area we found a flake that used to be solid, seemed to be more detached & looked like it had moved; we had to climb up to a tree - 50m was full ropestretch to make a safe anchor, would advise to use a 60m or use an area that is climber's left of the arete and 10' below the midledge. The actual ledge has chossy rock.

Leading the first pitch of Swanson Arete.

Climbers on Swanson Arete (down low) with the Yellow Spur in the background.

Positions and approaches for upper Vertigo rappel option 1 (purple) or option 2 (red).

Brenda tops out on Swanson Arete.

More easy terrain.

Stemming fun.

Looking down the dihedral.

Top of the arete.

Looking toward Green Spur Buttress.

Looking toward Icarus/Yellow Spur finale.

Leading off on P2 of Swanson's Arete.

From the great tree belay just below the arete, above the West Chimney. Great December 30th weather, 2016.

Mike Hubbard Topping out on the classic final pitch of Swanson's arete. He looks giddy as a school girl! (5/28/08)

Looking toward Walker.

Dave Covill heading up the arete on a beautiful day.

From Rewritten/Great Zot, cross over the W Chimney to reach the arete, which ascends the middle bump (Lumpe Tower).

John Barton on P3 of Swanson Arete.

Paul (before he bought his helmet), at the top of the second pitch.

An approach to the Vertigo rappel anchor (option 2) with the Chockstone rappel in the background.

Wayne tip-toeing up the arete.

Eva leading pitch 1.

Eva coming up pitch 2.

Swanson Arete from Rewritten.

Eva leading pitch 3.

Steven Watson on pitch 1.

Start of the arete.

Final roof (easy moves out right).

Red Bull gives you wings!

New summit rap gear.

Photo op: Sara Watson on last pitch approaching top.

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