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Real Men of Genius
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Ridge 1
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Adulterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Adultress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arrogant Bastard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bad Boy Boogie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casana Rojo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cyber Spraylord, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fist Full of Steel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fornicator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ganas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Shower S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Impersonator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Imposter, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inseminator (only P1's 1st 70 ft) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inseminator, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Outlaw S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oversprayed And Worthless (AKA: The Ejaculator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Raging Hormones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Real Men of Genius S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shootin' Off At The Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shootin' Off At The Mouth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silver Saddle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Straight A Student T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger (aka The Left Hand Route), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Blue Yonder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Nate Adams and Tod Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,855 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Jan 17, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Wow!
This is one of the best 11c sport routes I've ever done with wild sequences on very interesting stone.
This line starts just right (about 8 feet) of the prominent dihedral where The Stranger is located.
4 crux sections with 11ish moves await above. Start directly under the bolt to get the first hard move, a slab maneuver with tricky feet. You can also start a bit easier (10ish) by starting slightly right and then leaning left to clip.
The next difficulty is encountered at the third bolt - thin feet and hands to gain a jug.
Now for the real fun and the real crux - around bolt 5 you hit a steep roof with an extremely wild and somewhat dynamic sequence(Hint - heel hook left). Burl on through to a good rest under a massive huecoed roof.
From here, climb out the roof almost horizontally for about 20 feet on huge huecoes. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. The final crux is exiting this roof - pumpy but juggy.
It shares an anchor with The Stranger.
This has a beautiful setting and great crux sequences - plus unique stone and well-considered bolting - 3 stars for sure.
Good job by Tod and Nate.
This is one of the best 11c sport routes I've ever done with wild sequences on very interesting stone.
This line starts just right (about 8 feet) of the prominent dihedral where The Stranger is located.
4 crux sections with 11ish moves await above. Start directly under the bolt to get the first hard move, a slab maneuver with tricky feet. You can also start a bit easier (10ish) by starting slightly right and then leaning left to clip.
The next difficulty is encountered at the third bolt - thin feet and hands to gain a jug.
Now for the real fun and the real crux - around bolt 5 you hit a steep roof with an extremely wild and somewhat dynamic sequence(Hint - heel hook left). Burl on through to a good rest under a massive huecoed roof.
From here, climb out the roof almost horizontally for about 20 feet on huge huecoes. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. The final crux is exiting this roof - pumpy but juggy.
It shares an anchor with The Stranger.
This has a beautiful setting and great crux sequences - plus unique stone and well-considered bolting - 3 stars for sure.
Good job by Tod and Nate.
Photos
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8 Comments