Who Said That? Done - See Part 2

I was looking for Doug Robinson, but would have also accepted Mike Strassman. It was from the intro to Moving Over Stone.

"Beginning with 1995, the grading became softer, and softer, and softer… It slowly began with the change of the grade of “Action Directe” from 8c+ to 9a. Today, “Action Directe” is the most famous of all the 9a-routes and therefore it is the reference for that grade. The funny thing is that today “Action Directe”, which had been 8c+ originally, is one of the hardest 9a-routes in the world!!! It just shows, how far the overgrading went over the years – I guess that 90% of the modern high-end-routes are heavily overgraded if you compare these routes with the benchmark-route “Action Directe”."

Dave Graham

Thought you might guess that...Nope.

The verbage makes me think someone from europe. One of the Huber brothers? Stefan Glowacz?

Adam Ondra

kachoong wrote: One of the Huber brothers?

OK, I'll put up an easy one from one of my faves...

"People ask me why I drink so much. It's because of a morbid fear of dehydration."

Hilarious!

Sounds British? Whillans?

Yepper! Don Whillans is awesome...

Portrait of a Mountaineer and The Villain are good reads!

"We didn't fall much back then ... But now there is a new way of climbing, and it is power. If you don't fall, it is probably not hard enough. Perhaps these older climbers think that climbing shouldn't have gotten so hard, so fast...

...I'm still astonished and thrilled about how the nature of rock lends itself to free climbing. To me it is incredible to find routes that have just enough holds, and if they don't have quite enough, that's the way it goes. Perhaps, someday someone will be able to do it--you have to be very careful if you believe that you can predict the future.

I can almost hear people jumping out of their seats, saying, 'That's right -- so why rappel-bolt?' My response is common sense-- a common sense that moves with the along with the times. And times do change. Environmentally, rap bolting is not even comparable to what we're doing right now, riding down the road in my van. If it came down to it, you could take out every bolt that's been placed, put some glue and sand in the hole, and there would be no trace. Try doing that to L.A."

Jardine?

Nope, but in the ballpark.

Randy Leavitt?

Edit to say:

Ron Kauk.

Final answer.

Yes, Kauk, in an interview in R.I. #46 from '91.

Funny how things change, but the themes remain.

Aha...looks like its my turn...

"It doesn't have to be fun, to be fun."

Looking for the original, not Blanchard or Twight.

Cheers!

Ah shit, this game is over.

Brian in SLC wrote:Aha...looks like its my turn... "It doesn't have to be fun, to be fun." Looking for the original, not Blanchard or Twight. Cheers!

Trust me, now that Brian is playing, this game is OVER!

Here's a guote: can you guess who said it? "Climbing is fun to do, but boring as hell to watch. I'd rather watch my Granny knit a sweater. It's much more fascinating, and in the end I get a sweater out of the deal."

Good luck on that one.