Anything Else?

I want to know if there is anything else I should add to my rack? I am going to do my first lead this summer on Iowa limestone. I will also be going up to devil's lake so if there is any specific gear let me know. here is a list of gear I have so far.

2 BD harnesses
10.2 MM rope with bag
1 double length sling
5 shoulder length slings
7 quickdraws
1 extendable draw
2 locking biners
1 free biner
nut tool
WC rocks nuts 11,12,13
BD stoppers 1-10
BD belay device w locking biner
skyhook on sling
WC hexes 7,8,9
old slung BD hex number 4
BD cams 1 and 2
Metolius # ten cam
Helmet
Gear sling
Also I have two 20 ft peices of webbing for TR'ing

Looks good. I'd suggest more free biners for your shoulder length slings.

I'd also suggest getting a couple smaller cams (.5 and .75 Camalots, for example; the purple and green ones, respectively). Those are pretty important pieces on my rack. But what you've got should be good enough for most moderate stuff. That's kind of one truism of trad climbing; you make it work with the gear you've got. I'm personally not a fan of hexes but if they work for you, more power to ya.

I'd just suggest making all your shoulder slings into extendable draws. Some smaller cams like Tristan suggested, at least down to BD .5

The above recommendations are spot on. I'm not sure what the rock is like by you, but by me (the Gunks) all the moderate routes tend to do a lot of wandering. I use extended runners on 98% of my placements on everything under 5.9, however, your quickdraws will have to do.

I used QD's for my first season of leading trad. I definitely recall having a lot of pieces that would walk out of their placements as I climbed by. It rarely, if ever, happens these days, but I'm not sure if that's due to more experience or having extended draws. Probably a combination of both.

Assuming you've decided to go with C4's, a standard rack is .4 up through 3. You've got the larger end covered, but have nothing for the small end. A couple small cams will certainly help prevent you from running it out.

Are you going to wear the second harness for backup? (If your belayer doesn't even own his own harness, you might want to rethink your choice of partners. Find someone with a bit of experience to show you the ropes... it makes a big difference.)

If you are going to be building anchors you will need a few more lockers and it can be very helpful to bring a cordalette to build an equalette with.

+1 on the extra biners. Each of my shoulder slings has its own from the start.

Also, another nut tool will be helpful -- especially while you're learning. I can't count the number of times I've picked one size too big or too small and had to knock it back out to make room for the right one.

If your partner has his/her own, this won't be an issue, but chances are good you'll eventually climb with someone who doesn't come with nut tool in hand.

Brett B. wrote:If you are going to be building anchors you will need a few more lockers and it can be very helpful to bring a cordalette to build an equalette with.

+1 - more important to have on the rack than a couple of small cams - you can probably "make do" with the nuts you have, but something for an anchor is pretty crucial.

nice set of stuff!

i would add one of Luebben's books to the pile.

skyhook on sling? Interesting choice.

Anyhow, 4-5 more biners, another double length runner, a "junk" runner in the event of a bail. For the same reason, keep collecting nuts.

Buy a cam every six months and have fun!

Adam Stackhouse wrote:.... keep collecting nuts. Buy a cam every six months and have fun!

This is what I would reccommend too. Double up on your nuts, perhaps get the smaller cams as suggested above. The lockers are good advice too. Maybe a spare belay device and instruction on/learn how to get down without one. Either/both books by Leubben or Long are must reads!

My rack grew over the years... into a frankenrack... somehow it never reaches a peak... you can never have too much gear, right?!

i would suggest adding some smaller cams to your rack, i always seem to use them on every lead at devils lake. I have the TCUs from metolius. depending on your money situation i would say get blue, yellow and orange TCU (thats 1,2,3) and then add a .5 and .75 in BD cams. If you are TRing at the lake get some longer webbing bc some of the natural features are a bit further away from the edge.

+1 for a cordalette. 2 if you're doing multipitch.

Also, with the standard ATC, I'd practice doing top belays with it before heading out if you are planning to top out. It can be a little awkward without practice.

I think its enough to get you started. Good luck man!

Lose the hook, convert 3/4 of your quickdraws into trad draws using those slings, get a few more free biners (both locking and non). replace the atc with an ATC guide for belaying up the second when a redirect isnt practical. Maybe add a cordolette, mammut makes a pretty slick super low bulk 18?ft one, or just use 6-7mm cord and make your own.

you'll figure out what you need more of as you get er done.

Devils Lake Climbing Standard Rack

Min. Rack (IMO)
---------------
BD Cams .5 to #3 (Must have IMO)
set of full nuts
8-10 24" slings with 2 wire gate biners each Use on every nut you place and most cams)
2 48" slings with 1 wire gate biner each
20'-30' 7mm cordelete
2 Big Locks
Nut Tool
Tricams .25 to .2 Nylon Sling (Also very nice to have on iowa limestone)
rope, helmet, belay device w/ lockers, shoes, harness
2 30' to 40' chunks of webbing
2x 7mm Accessory cord 3' longs for a prusiks very helpfully
Metoilus PAS Daisy Chain w/ small Locker.

• ***Experienced Trad Partner!!!**** (This will save youre ass more than anything)

A Good climbing anchors book.. mountainproject.com/v/wisco…

Bonus Rack (then you can climb almost anywhere rack)
----------------------------------------------------
Set of Small Cams One of the following (get the smaller two sizes last)
-----or Aliens (green to Orange first)
-----or Metoilus TCU (Blue to red first)
2nd Set of nuts (I use Metolius & BD Nuts at the lake, but any will do)
BD Cams C4 complete the set #.3, #.4, #4, #5 doubles of #1 - #3
10-15 biners "Wire Gate"
2 more small biners lockers
BD Guide Belay Device

Post up to the forum when your going to the lake to do your first trad leads if you don't know anyone. Im sure someone will meet up with you to help keep it safe and make sure your doing things right or send me a PM.

Also i have never used a hook while on trad i only know one person that carriered one. If you need to rest on a lead place a peice of gear and clip into it with rope or your daisy.

Awesome first Trad route at the lake...

Foreplay (Includes small tree to sling) mountainproject.com/v/wisco…

Are you going to wear the second harness for backup?

Sorry, I didn't mention it, but the second harness is for my belayer

WiledHorse wrote:nice set of stuff! i would add one of Luebben's books to the pile.

yep, have his book Rockclimbing: A comprehensive guide
and Steve long'book The Climbing Handbook

I'm curious: what are you going to use the sky hook on a sling for?

And I say, if you don't have the money right now, don't worry about the cams. I climbed on 2 tricams, a #.75 and #2 bd, a set of medium nuts, and 2 hexes for three months or so. Would I go back to it? No. But it worked.

Kevin,

One other note in your future gear acquisitions. Don't rely on Ebay for too many good deals on used equipment (particularly cams). If the 80cents on the dollar doesn't get you, the shipping usually will. I have used it for things like WC hardstem friends and a some older stuff that I do not intend on using other than in my future cam collection, but all in all pay attention.

"pink tricam" +1

Pink and red tricam X 2

Pink and red tricam -1

I carry my pink and red with me often and never place them. I'd say stick with nuts and cams until you recognize the need for tricams--if that time ever comes. That being said, if you bought them and didn't like them, you could always just sell them here. There are enough people that like them...