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Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)
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A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Banana Peels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Before the Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Burning Tendons T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Caught My Eye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crispy Critter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Green Magic in the Hills S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Inner Planet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Past & Pleasant S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pleasant Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasant Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scrambled Leggs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Seneca Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dan Miller |
| Page Views: | 9,312 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 24, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
This is one on the nicest face climbs at Seneca in my opinion. Great moves, good gear, and great position and tops out on a very thin and exposed flake. The crux is right around the first bolt, then fun face moves all the way to the top with an exciting finish.
Location
Start at the highest point on the Old Man's Traverse Ledge, just right of a right facing corner(15ft high with wide crack). Easiest descent is via a small rappel tree in the gully behind the large flake about 30 Ft. below the top out. Rappel or scramble down to shuts on Conn's West.
Protection
2 bolts, 2 pins, standard Seneca rack. A larger microstopper is nice for the last move, but somewhat hard to place. Gear is plentiful for most of the route. This will likely become more popular since the R rating has been dropped in the new guidebook (it's definitely not R rated, especially for Seneca).
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