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> E Buttress (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b)
ID 106681980 ·
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Alexey Zelditch
Feb 23, 2010
“Quick answer from Peter Hann on ST
here is what I remember doing. It was in 1971, one of the very early free ascents. Regardless of exact detail in the upper section, you are NOT on the right side of the arete, but out on the slightly junky slabby face with lots of trees and ledges and breaks. The upper section is actually fun and kind of odd, never difficult. If you are up there and are contemplating where to go next, just keep it as easy as possible.
The crux pitch is actually very interesting with a flare that gets worse and worse while the crack in the back gets pinched down as well.It is easy to get "tunnel vision" on that lead, so keep your eyes open. The main wall is not too terribly steep there but the flake dihedral is leaning left somewhat.”
here is what I remember doing. It was in 1971, one of the very early free ascents. Regardless of exact detail in the upper section, you are NOT on the right side of the arete, but out on the slightly junky slabby face with lots of trees and ledges and breaks. The upper section is actually fun and kind of odd, never difficult. If you are up there and are contemplating where to go next, just keep it as easy as possible.
The crux pitch is actually very interesting with a flare that gets worse and worse while the crack in the back gets pinched down as well.It is easy to get "tunnel vision" on that lead, so keep your eyes open. The main wall is not too terribly steep there but the flake dihedral is leaning left somewhat.”
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