Mountain Project Logo

Crack Shoes! What should I get?

Original Post
Ty Harlacker · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 231

I am in need of some expertise from the collective being at MP.

I would like to start crack-climbing. I hear I need shoes with a high rand and stiff sole for wedging in the cracks. I have had a few suggestions but have no clue on what they were. Any info would be appreciated.

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

5.10 moccosins with stealth paint after they stretch out. they'll stretch out a full size, size em small, when your foot slops around in them put the stealth paint on. they are boss for cracks. just don't try and heel hook in them at all.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

keenan, dude said he is starting to crack climb. while mocs are the shit for cracks, i wouldnt recommend them for entry level crack climbing. he has the right idea with high rand and stiff sole, until his feet get used to jamming.

Sorden · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 95

You want a pair of board-lasted lace-up (as opposed to board-lasted velcro or slip-lasted) shoes for general all-around crack shoes. The "board" is a stiff inset sewn into the sole of the shoe and it prevents lateral movement in the sole and basically just stiffens up the shoe. A good example of the slip-lasted lace up is the La Sportiva Mythos. I wouldn't go board-lasted velcro (if you can find them) because cracks tend to tear the straps apart in my experience. My favorite pair of board-lasted lace-ups are the Red Chili Sausalitos. I also own a pair of La Sportiva TradMasters but you'll get mixed reviews on these. I love 'em for certain cracks and trad climbs because they're as comfortable as approach shoes and insulated for cold days but I wouldn't call them the ideal crack shoe by any means. In my opinion, you want a shoe that you can climb in all day but also realize that this criteria is hard to satisfy with your typical board-lasted lace-up.

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

Anything big enough so your toes lie flat. That is the one and only requirement. Tight sport shoes with your toes curled up will be agony.

After you've had more experience, if you still want to climb cracks, you'll have a much better idea what you want/need.

GO

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
Sorden wrote:I wouldn't go board-lasted velcro (if you can find them) because cracks tend to tear the straps apart in my experience.
Haven't had any problems here. Mind you, I actually pull my feet out of the crack rather than shuffling them.

As far as board lasted vs. slip lasted, does anybody other than Boreal even make board lasted climbing shoes anymore?

Get something that your toes lay flat in, and perhaps is meant for thin edging when sized aggressively. That'll give you some stiffness to make up for the fact that your feet are probably not that strong. Depending on the lace design and the cracks you're climbing, be prepared to replace laces early and often. This is why slippers and velcro closed shoes are so popular in the Creek. If you're replacing the laces every night, it gets old. Places with very flared cracks, or cracks without sharp edges, this is less of an issue.

Eventually you'll want a very soft shoe (moccasyms, mythos, etc) for thin cracks, but don't worry about it just yet.
Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090
Brian Scoggins wrote: Haven't had any problems here. Mind you, I actually pull my feet out of the crack rather than shuffling them. As far as board lasted vs. slip lasted, does anybody other than Boreal even make board lasted climbing shoes anymore?
Aren't the Sportiva TC's board lasted? Maybe the John Bachar shoe that Acopa put out? One of those is I'm pretty sure.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Sam Stephens wrote:Aren't the Sportiva TC's board lasted? Maybe the John Bachar shoe that Acopa put out?
Neither is (I have both).

Not sure anyone makes a board lasted shoe anymore.

Edit to add: appears Boreal still makes a couple of models that are board lasted. Hmmm...
Sorden · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 95
Brian Scoggins wrote: Haven't had any problems here. Mind you, I actually pull my feet out of the crack rather than shuffling them.
Absolutely, good point. The safe answer is: just wear what you have man, wherever you are in ability, wherever you are in the world. And try every shoe in every type of crack. We could start a lengthy new thread debating which shoes to wear for every situation and preference. It can indeed make all the difference. But then again, there's something to be said for using what you have so you can learn for yourself what works in each flavor of crack. I've used a wide variety of brands and models so I can know first hand what works for me. Sometimes I have only one pair of climbing shoes to my name and that's what I wear. At the moment, I believe I have four working pairs. Some pairs I've resoled multiple times, some pairs I've purchased multiple times (e.g. Mythos.) I have a friend who has purchased old-school, high-top shoes worn in by other people (yuck!) because he swears by the tall, stiff battle boot that's no longer made. I had an awesome pair of 5.10s that fit my wide flat foot so nicely; no longer in production. I loved the Scarpa Techno / I hated the La Sportiva Katana, etcetera. I'll take the same shoes to Indian Creek that I take to Lumpy Ridge though I've grown to prefer some over others. Crack climbing is suffering, especially for your feet, no matter how slick your footwork is in or out of the crack. As they say in the desert, you only layback the crack when you can't climb it. Try to be comfortable (toes not cramped = a must) but say yes to the pain and dive in brother! If I wanted to be the most badass climber in the forum I would have said hobnail boots. Which might actually make good ankle protection in a place like Vedauwoo; fun to think about. Style definitely counts, in climbing always and in fashion, uh, yeah well, maybe sometimes. Ultimately, it might not mean more to you than whether or not your feet ache at the end of the day but, on the other hand, it could honestly become a fatal choice, the wrong footwear that is, on any given day. We could spawn yet another tangent thread asking for everyone's best near-fatal footwear story. Mine would probably be in Eldo and have something to do with flip flops. Ahhhhh crack climbing! Exciting stuff, eh?
Colin Kenneth · · Fort Collins, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 280

I actually use my Muira VCs. the lace-up is great too, but the VCs fit my foot amazingly. for crack shoes I have them sized basically perfectly for my foot. If i were to wear them for sport or bouldering, I'd probably be wearing a half size down to really benefit from the p3 platform that they have. As is, they are stiff enough to jam, but also precise enough to use for small feel out on a face.

The toe box is designed in such a way as to shape your foot as IF they were down-toed, without actually being shaped as such.

Pat C · · Honolulu · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 45

How do the TC pros compare to the Mythos??? Mythos fit my feet super good, I haven't been able to find anything else that I really liked, but want a more aggressive design.

Colin Kenneth · · Fort Collins, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 280
Pat C wrote:How do the TC pros compare to the Mythos??? Mythos fit my feet super good, I haven't been able to find anything else that I really liked, but want a more aggressive design.
I've only used the mythos as a demo. The VS is definitely an entirely different animal. The toe is SLIGHTLY more cambered, and the mythos seems like it has a more even point curved almost equally from either side, the point of the VC is at the big toe. The Mythos struck me as significantly narrower as well.

Depending on how you fit it, I think the VS can either be SIGNIFICANTLY more aggressive, or just slightly, depending on how tight you get them. I wouldn't climb crack in them if they are super tight. I can tell it would be pretty excruciating.

I'd think about either the normal Muira/ women's muira if you have smaller feet, or the VC. The lace-ups are more narrow, the women's specific has a lower heel cup I think...the VS is a bit more square in the toe box, which fits me (normal to slightly wide foot)

A lot of people have been recommending the moccasym, they are good for desert sandstone...being really subtle in the fit, but they do stretch a s**t ton, and I wouldn't wear them if you are going to be standing on them for 1000 feet at a time, or more crystalline uneven cracks.

I don't know what you are climbing, or what shoe you wear already, I don't think you want a TERRIBLY aggressive shoe for any kind of crack. Galileo or anazazis are a nice, stiff shoe that is still pointed enough to mix in some face climbing. It is all about how you fit them.



Plus they look cool so you FEEL like Tommy Caldwell.

(this is a few pitches up something easy in ELDO.)

The first thing I climbed after getting the VCs was regular (practice crack)

followed shortly by athlete's feat

and Country Club Crack

Each is significantly different, one with some toehooking, the second with some serious tension/lieback smearing on slick "footholds" and the last was full on foot jams, and I was so impressed that I think my partner just wanted me to shut up about my magic shoes that make me climb 5.11 trad like it was 5.10 sport

edited to atone for mislabeling.
Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106
C K Mills wrote:I actually use my Muira VCs...
Um... it's the Miura VS, not Muira VC...

Also, I would not recommend the Miura VS, personally. I wear mine really tight though, which makes them pretty much useless for crack climbing. Too painful. In my honest opinion, if you are going to buy the Miura and then wear it loose enough to crack climb, it's a bit of a waste. Don't get me wrong, I love my Miuras, but why use such an aggressive shoe, when there are trad specific shoes out there? The Miura is geared towards bouldering and steep sport routes, not cracks.

Pat C wrote:How do the TC pros compare to the Mythos??? Mythos fit my feet super good, I haven't been able to find anything else that I really liked, but want a more aggressive design.
The TC Pro is my choice for all around Trad shoe, crack climbing included. It's got more rubber on the sole, making it less floppy and easier to edge in, and the high top is nice for protecting your ankles as well. I've actually never worn the Mythos, but everyone I talk to says the TC Pro is the next logical step up. One store clerk told me, "If the Mythos and the Miura VS had a shoe baby, it would would be the TC Pro."

:P
Kurt Ross · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 280

5.10 pitons

Colin Kenneth · · Fort Collins, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 280
Taylor Ogden wrote: Um... it's the Miura VS, not Muira VC...
What exactly is the point of this other than trying to discredit someone because of one letter.

Forgive my transgressions, minister of shoe-name accuracy.

my point stands, I climb in them. They are slightly more aggressive than the mythos, and I point out specifically how they fit.

The VS. That is.

We can agree to disagree. I feel that they aren't sloppy loose, I benefit from the precision and aggressiveness without having to fold my foot in half, and can still jam in them as well as any trad specific shoe short of a high top.

The TC pro is the same deal, it is significantly more expensive, the most expensive shoe for sale in fact, and the benefits do not lend as well to sportier trad climbing.
Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106
C K Mills wrote:Forgive my transgressions, minister of shoe-name accuracy.
You are forgiven :P

Seriously though, I didn't mean any harm. Just pointing it out, and giving my opinion. When it comes down to it, you can climb any way you want in whatever you feel like, and if it works for you it's cool with me :)
Colin Kenneth · · Fort Collins, co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 280

What about These ? I didn't know they were coming out, but I'm pretty stoked now. I've always liked the muira lace, maybe the Katana will offer a bit stiffer platform. I was under the impression that the Baracuda was supposed to be a lace up katana, but as comfy as they are, I always thought the upper on the baracuda felt like it was made of nothing at all. Wouldn't want to crank to hard sideways on it.

You are fine Taylor, I am not really all that hurt by someone pointing out I'm not infallible. I'm utterly aware.

COEveryman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 300

CONSISTENTLY THE BEST ENTRY LEVEL CRACK SHOE FOR THE PAST DECADE AND RUNNING--the mythos from la sportiva--NO DOUBT ABOUT IT.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
COEveryman wrote:CONSISTENTLY THE BEST ENTRY LEVEL CRACK SHOE FOR THE PAST DECADE AND RUNNING--the mythos from la sportiva--NO DOUBT ABOUT IT.
Does putting a statement in all caps necessarily make it true?
Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
Sam Stephens wrote: Aren't the Sportiva TC's board lasted? Maybe the John Bachar shoe that Acopa put out? One of those is I'm pretty sure.
JBs are super stiff slip lasted. If you size them for face climbing, they are spectacular all-day edgers, but the crack performance suffers. Conversely, if you size them for crack climbing, especially steep offwidth climbing, the face climbing performance suffers.

The TCs take a similar tack.

I wear Moccs, Katanas, and JBs, each for a different application. I tend to use the moccs if I expect a lot of thin cracks or smearing, the JBs for hands-and-bigger cracks and nothing else, and the Katanas are my all arounders. I spent a lot of money finding the right combo of shoes for the kind of climbing I enjoy. Chances are most crack climbers have done the same.

But if you're just starting, all of the advanced technology and crack specificity in the world won't make you a better crack climber, and will probably hinder you.
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

The Mythos from La Sportiva and the lace up Anasazi from 5.10 seem to be rad.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Crack Shoes! What should I get?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.