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Last of the aid routes ?

Original Post
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I just stumbled over High & Dry being freed - very nice job ! What's next ? razor crack ?, Grand Finale ?, Ghost ? Keep it up !!!!

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,355

Last!!!! Hopefully not, as long as my knuckles drag on the ground my hammer will drag with them!

burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

the bolt ladder pitch on the ghost? mmmmmmm, if Nhclimber wants to replace them all for me Ill go up there with you John!!!!! Nhclimber: that does mean I will give you a ride and clean the ghost roof!

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Take a look at the old Paul Ross photo of the f/a. The one with John bragg reading bagadavita (sp). The angle is way under vertical like lots of Cannon(hint, hint). Kinda like a certain climb on Cathedral that should go free.......

burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

Strand didnt you and tom free that?

burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

dont let that cat out the bag john. If i can't free it my kids will.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

No that's not me-it's some guy with hair and wearing socks ! A cool pitch, Kurt fell pulling on to the belay and went for a gigantic swing, scraping along the Mordor lip ! He sid " I'll give that an R"

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,355

NICE. I've wanted that roof for a while. I'll see what I can for fixed gear replacement while up there. I know the bolt/rivet ladder on 2 needs some replacing and will certaintly not be aiding the roof clean (sorry syko, I don't wanna die)so I'll leave some gear fixed. John, when you coming east again?

Burlap, will you read to me when I'm up there????

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I wonder if I can make it up the talus ? What will be the book ?

burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

Nhclimber, I will read to you on the roof if you read to me on the ladder pitch, we need to go and get that shit this summer, did psycho tell you that the roof goes clean? I talked to him the other day...wished I had asked for specifics. Strand, we'll carry you up the talus field if you come up.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I was thinking of a book- Sinergetics by Buckminster Fuller. About 2,000 pages or so and I started it around '79. It might take that long to free ?
Don't listen to Sycho, he's clearly ready for a straight jacket !

nhclimber · · Newmarket, NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,355

Sinergetics???? With us Dr. Seuss is more like it. I think the secrets of the notch book mentions that the roof has had 2 clean ascents, C4F +/- I guess. But where I go, my hammer goes.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
nhclimber wrote:Sinergetics???? With us Dr. Seuss is more like it. I think the secrets of the notch book mentions that the roof has had 2 clean ascents, C4F +/- I guess. But where I go, my hammer goes.
Maybe o graphic novel- then we can feel young and look at pix.
An f/a or especially an ffa always should involve a hammer, or 2. Clean climbing is for aid, I love a hammer.
As my man TC used to say when placing a pin-" too the EYE!!!!"
burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

I love it, and its true because its pretty rare in the northeast to do a f/a and not have fixed gear on it, thats just the way it works with the features of rock here, you are linking features together to put the route together. All hail the hammer!

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The great Aussie - Mike Law "the Claw" said "ethics are for easy climbs" . Also " the climb wandered around like a drunk, and was about as attractive" , so couple whacks with a hammer made it right.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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