Nice '95 Toy PU w/bad valve @ 235k - Fix or retire? - Shop recommendations?

I have a '95 Toyota pickup with over 235k. It's been an incredible vehicle but is now suffering with a bad valve and won't pass emissions anymore.

Aside from the tired motor, the truck is still a very nice climber rig. Long ago I decked out for desert trips with everything... ARB Air Locker, Warn Winch in an ARB bumper, sweet sound for the long drives, topper, carpet kit in back, etc.

I hate to start over with a new truck at this point so if I can get this one fixed up, that would be dandy. And selling it as it is, I could never get much as it won't even pass emissions.

Any recommendations on shops to take it in the Boulder or Front Range? (Replace motor or rebuild?)

Or, is it time to just let go?

Thanks for any input.

With all the work you've done to it - and if all the other mechanicals are in decent shape (undercarriage, suspension, etc) it might make a lot of sense to try and find a motor from something about half that age/mileage in a junker somewhere and swap it out.

If you hadn't done all that extra stuff, i'd say start over.

Frosty Weller wrote:I have a '95 Toyota pickup with over 235k. It's been an incredible vehicle but is now suffering with a bad valve and won't pass emissions anymore. Aside from the tired motor, the truck is still a very nice climber rig. Long ago I decked out for desert trips with everything... ARB Air Locker, Warn Winch in an ARB bumper, sweet sound for the long drives, topper, carpet kit in back, etc. I hate to start over with a new truck at this point so if I can get this one fixed up, that would be dandy. And selling it as it is, I could never get much as it won't even pass emissions. Any recommendations on shops to take it in the Boulder or Front Range? (Replace motor or rebuild?) Or, is it time to just let go? Thanks for any input.

Keep that rig rollin' Charley's garage in north Boulder is a very knowledgeable toy shop. Mike's Automotive in Lafayette, Mike is a great all-around mechanic. I have had both work on my FJ-60. You could probably swap the head for a cheaper alternative to a long block replacement. Good Luck

Don't throw the baby out with the bathwater! If it's just a bad valve, you don't need to replace the entire engine. Assuming the bottom end is still good (pistons, crank shaft, etc) you can either pull the heads & rebuild them, or just replace the heads with remanufactured units. (2 heads for V-6, 1 head for 4-cylinder or inline 6).

Total cost (I'm guessing here) should be about $300 for a new head, plus $100 for assorted new gaskets, plus a short day of labor for a shop.

With all of the work you've done on the truck, sounds like it's worth sticking with it. For more model-specific advice, head over to the forums at 4x4wire - there are some serious truck geeks over there.

235k miles is a lot even for a toyota. If you want to fix it for the long term, I'd say buy a rebuilt crated engine and do a swap. That way, you know you won't be pulling the engine apart again anytime soon.

Also, have a peak at the transmission, just to make sure you're not throwing money at a time bomb.

So, I'd say drop the money for an engine swap, and don't junk her.

Evan

Call Dick at Import Specialists on E. Arapahoe. He still drives his old Toyota pickup, and I think it is around 30 years old. He's is always telling me that getting my 91 Nissan PU fixed is cheaper than monthly payments and insurance on a new one. Those guys are really good . . not cheap, but honest and very experienced.

ditto the recommendation on Charlie's up in north boulder (north broadway). good folks. 235K on a toyota is just getting started.

I vote rebuilt engine with a trannie check up (maybe 4000 if the transmission is bad too). If it is still as nice as the picture indicates, you cant buy a truck like that these days for 4 grand.... or 6... or probably even 8 thousand bucks. That thing is saweet!

Steve

Back when my last car was due for emissions it failed each time it was due. Each time I went to AutoZone and paid a staggering $8 or so for a little bottle of magic that you pour into your gas tank. Run one tank of gas with it then fill up again and go to the emissions place. I passed every time. Not sure what the stuff was called but it says something about guaranteed to pass emissions or smog check on the bottle. If I were you, I'd risk the $8-$10 and try that route first.

Don't get rid of the truck... Fix it for sure... I sold my 95 Toy about 3 months ago and have been having sellers remorse ever since. You won't find a better road trip climbing machine then your rig...
Dallen

Frosty,

I can recommend Autowrench (Dave Wrench, proprietor). They moved from Boulder to Longmont a few years ago to keep their prices low when the rent got too high here. Honest guys, do a good job and tell it like it is when you have options instead of just recommending the higher dollar fix. I've been taking him my cars and trucks for many years now with excellent results. Good luck with the rig,
Mark

Awesome guys... Mtn Proj rules. I knew this would be a good place to come for options and recommendations on a Toyota Pickup.

It's unanimous and I'm convinced. I guess I needed some reassurance I was going down the right path... not to mention getting pointed in the direction of some good mechanics and shops. Yeah, it's worthy to keep this baby running.

I should add that this is the 3LV6 motor and though it was purchased as a 1995, but it is technically a 1994.5 pickup (so right before the Tacoma).

Those 4cyl Toyota motors seem to normally give you about another 100k more than I got here (and on on my previous 4Runner 3LV6). Despite the lower mpg, fully loaded on those weekend warrior climbing trips, I have appreciated the few extra horses when pulling the mountain passes.

I do think the bottom end is still good on this motor. I'll look into just doing the heads as MarcD suggests. I do wonder though if it's just better to go for the whole enchilada and install a new/rebuild... just bite the bullet.

Toyota trucks. Gotta love 'em. I also have a 2001 Tundra that I like a lot. I put a Northstar popup on that for outings with the girlfriend. It's dang nice. But most of my climbing buddies can't understandably justify the cost of the V8 on long trips, and frankly they would rather sleep in the dirt. But I also prefer the 'ol Green Truck for solo trips. And it's certainly better for things like kayaking and serious off-road outings.

So yea, the 1995 Green Truck... my favorite ever and I need to get her going again.

You guys have given me some great options for the repair work, that's huge. Thanks to all.

I get my tax refund next week... I'll post up the outcome.

Climb On.
Frosty

Don't really like the 6 banger. Lose a timing belt and you lose the heads because of the interference fit between the piston and valves. 4 banger is a bit more reliable even though a interference fit it's protected by the timing chain. If it was a 4 banger I'd bore and hone, rework the head, grind the crank, buy a master kit and you know what you've got. Don't like trusting crate engines, rather go with a rebuilder I know (for me it is me). Have an 86 that I'm working a spare engine for. The original has 350,000 and is still going strong but am preparing for the inevitable. If you like the truck have the engine built by a shop that has a good reputation, people that build race engines is one way to go. And change the timing belt per factory specs as well as all sealed bearings that support the belt (water pump, idlers, and whatever else may be involved). More than likely it's still cheaper than a payment on a new one. I'm just an old crusty climber what the hell do I know.

I sure wouldn't get rid of it. Cars aren't made nearly as well as they used to be - everything's unibody construction, aluminum body, cheap cheap cheap.

Fix it up and sell it to me, eh? Just totalled my clunker (t-boned a guy who made a left turn in front of me) and refuse to get into anything new for all of the above reasons. Do be prepared, though, because of the year and mileage that should you also get into a crash (knock on wood) you'll get nothing back for it.

Actually, I should have asked first what you mean by a bad valve. If it's the valve stem seals that are leaking (i.e. you're burning oil and you're failing emissions because of visible smoke in the exhaust), you may be able to replace the seals without even pulling the head. I know it's possible in my truck (91 Montero) and can be done in half a day for minimal parts cost.

If you've actually got a leaking valve (i.e. bad compression), then you'll have to do the head. If you're trying to save $$ you only have to do the side that has the bad valve, although if you're really investing in the truck you might as well do both while you're in there.

Forgot to put timing belt in my cost estimate above - although you don't HAVE to replace it if it's nearly new, it needs to be removed if you're pulling the heads - so you might as well put a new one back on.

True. I guess I'm used to fixing up old climber's trucks with the minimum necessary. My brother hit a deer with his old Toyota last fall and I did some "body work" with a pry bar and bailing wire. The truck was rolled by its previous owner, so it's no beauty to begin with.

Charlie's Toyota in N. Boulder

I have an 03 tacoma with 91k on it. How urgent is it that I replace my timing belt?

I believe the owner's manual recommends 90k mile replacement intervals, so I'd say get it done before 100k unless you're planning on selling soon. Over the lifetime of the truck, there's not really any savings in putting off the timing belt replacement.

As to how urgent it is, it depends on how hard your truck gets driven, in what sorts of environments, and whether the engine is interference or not. You can partially remove the timing belt cover to see what condition the belt is in, but not all issues will be obvious.

It's not a terribly difficult job to do yourself if you need to save money. It's about $100 of parts, and figure a long day of work for your first time.

OTOH, I'm some random dude on a climbing forum, and it's your $10k truck, so... talk to a mechanic.

If it's a Toyota, don't replace your timing belt (or anything else for that matter) until something is wrong with it. That nice little timing belt coupon that you just got from your Toyota dealer is just a ploy to get you to spend money. Brought my truck in for a timing belt replaced for what is it, $350? They tried to tell me I needed to spend an extra $1000 replacing "worn" parts with new ones. In retrospect, it would have been better off to have simply left it alone. Oh yes, this reminds me of another point, don't take your vehicle in to the dealer for work. Unless the work being done is covered by a warranty, you can get the same work done at a good mechanic shop, for far less than your first born child, your left arm, and right leg.