Any suggestions on a first 5.13a lead?

Blake Cash wrote: agreed. don't let the height fool you...25 Ft just means you have a lot, and I mean A LOT, harder rock climbing to do in a much shorter distance. For the front range...I'd say Vasodilator, for my money, best 13a on the front range. Snakewatching in the Flatirons is a dead vertical 150 foot crimpfest (if that's what you're into). Utah...Sprout is fun, but chipped and drilled all to hell. No single move is a 5.13 move, maybe mid 5.12. it's long too...you'd build some endurance just working the route. I'd second Jeremy, go to IC, aid up something rad, work it on TR, send and be way proud of yourself. Or wait til summer and go to Mill Creek and climb Aesthetics (13a)....and let me know if you think it's 13a or 14a......

My hands are sweating just thinking about it.

Hank Caylor wrote: Dude, the Web is 13b. And not an easy one. IMO. Try White Lies also in Eldo.

Which one is White Lies? i can't seem to find it on MP nor the new guide book...

and how does The Web compare to Tunnel Vision?

5.13a is a good grade for aesthetic beauty. Here is some shots to get you motivated.
All of these are within 4-5 hours from Salt Lake.

5.13a

5.13a

5.13a

Secret 13

excommunication

paper crane

secret 13 area

crush the skull

5.13a

el nino

tacos diablos

5.13a

golden eye

pinkus organic

Those are some great photos. How about adding the route names and locations... Awesome!!!

- Luke

Kai Huang wrote: Which one is White Lies? i can't seem to find it on MP nor the new guide book... and how does The Web compare to Tunnel Vision?

Tunnel Vision is light duty 13b and worlds easier than the web.

grayhghost wrote:5.13a is a good grade for aesthetic beauty. Here is some shots to get you motivated. All of these are within 4-5 hours from Salt Lake.

grayhghost, it looks like most of these climbs are in Millcreek Moab. Where can you get a good guide book of Millcreek?

Oddly Millcreek is in the minority there.

1.) Uinta mountains
2.) Henry mountains
3.) Lander limestone
4.) redrock
5.) castle valley
6.) millcreek
7.) redrock, same route
8.) millcreek
9.) uintas, same route
10.) yosemite, el cap
11.) Alta
12.) uintas
13.) lcc
14.) Henry mountains

The best way to experience millcreek is without a guide book, or just buy the beer and I will show you when the snow melts.
12.)

Kai Huang wrote: Which one is White Lies? i can't seem to find it on MP nor the new guide book.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/105761439

It's the same route.

If you come to Saint George/VRG

Joe Six Pack 13a

Description
on the planet earth wall shares first two or three bolts with red neck! one of the best routes for the grade anywhere!! stellar rock lots'o climbing and killer movement make up this gem.. watch out for the thumb move at about 80ft. truly amazing!

Protection
Bolts, but many people quake in there boots on this sporty pitch!!

mountainproject.com/v/arizo…

You should go to to Chadbourne and climb some of the most righteous choss the wasatch has to offer. I recommend Beam and Coke, though not 5.13a it is 12d, so its close. Four deep in the Hoopti is 13a, I've never tried it but it has poison ivy at the base and a hornets nest halfway to the top. BADASS!

Bump for some sweet photos!

are those photos of blue @ the Hoop?

any infor on the henry mountain route it looks amazing

richard magill wrote:Front range I think the gold standard is Sonic Youth in Clear Creek. And unlike many local "13a" routes, nobody will come along trying to convince you it really is just 12+ later...

Really? I gave it 12c.

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