Late March New Mexico Ideas

A small group of us is planning a climbing trip in late march. We are looking for info or maybe ideas on climbing areas in New Mexico. Specifically, somewhat close to Albuquerque. The group is very mixed. Some of us are capable of 5.12/V6-7. One started climbing a month ago. One is looking to do his first outdoor lead on the trip. Bouldering most of the group is in the V2-V5 range.
Where would you suggest we go. We want to camp and are looking for mostly sport/ bouldering. I may sneak away for a day of trad but it is unlikely.
We are aware of our impact and don't mind "primitive"camping. Pay camping is also acceptable and I think if I were to ask some in the group, having "amenities" may be preferred. Relatively easy access to a grocery store is also helpful since we have small cars and cannot carry that much stuff.
I realize this is a big list of requests but I guess I am being hopeful. To summerize, we are looking for an area that has: Bouldering in the V2-V7 ranges, Sport in the 5.7-5.12 range, Camping, Town within 40-50 miles.

Enchanted Tower or El Rito Sport Area

Both areas have great hard routes & great easy routes. Both have free primitive camping. Both will be in good shape in late March (though a bit on the cold side). Both are ~2 hrs from ABQ, but well worth the drive.

Neither of these are bouldering destinations, but there are boulder problems around. If you go to ET, Socorro is only an hour away (and on the way to ABQ) and has very good bouldering.

I agree with the places mentioned and would add the bouldering in Jemez. Lots of areas and lots of good problems. Also, if you go to El Rito, make sure you eat at the mexican place in town.

...El Farolito.

SI'!!

Cochiti Mesa- alot closer to ABQ. You can camp at the Dam/Lake(paid) or some primitive near the rock(not much parking). Both mentioned above are excellent! However, a bit further, especially E. Tower.

There are so many places to go in NM. Do some good research and Im sure you'll find the perfect place to fit your needs. Good luck!

Great. Thanks a bunch guys. El Rito Looks Perfect. I'm assuming the falcon closures at the trad area will be in effect in march. Correct? If anyone has any more suggestions, I'm all ears. We are driving in from CO so anywhere in northern NM looks inviting.
Do you guys have any suggestions for guidebooks for the area? Are the online resources like for El Rito good enough?

Shane Neal wrote:Cochiti Mesa- alot closer to ABQ.

The road to Cochiti will almost certainly be closed in late March. You can still hike or bike the road, but its ~4 miles.

You didn't state how far you were willing to drive, but if up to 5 hours, Jacks Canyon is one of my favorite destinations when climbing with a group with varying abilities. You can easily find 5.8 to 5.12 all within the same area.

Granted, it's not in New Mexico, but it's not all that far outside of New Mexico. In the spring it can be really good or it can be bad. That's spring around here, you can have beautiful calm days or it can be crappy, cold, and windy. It's kind of schitzo.

Nikolai,

There is some bouldering around the cliffs at El Rito as well, it is included in the old mini guide that was in Rock and Ice or Climbing.

You can also find areas in the Sandias, notably Hole in the Wall, where you have everything from bolted 5.7 or 8 up to bolted 5.12+ with some mixed stuff as well.

Ponderosa for bouldering is also great and varied but I'm not sure if the roads will be open so you might be limited to The Pond.

+1 El Rito

Monomaniac wrote:Enchanted Tower or El Rito Sport Area Both areas have great hard routes & great easy routes. Both have free primitive camping. Both will be in good shape in late March (though a bit on the cold side). Both are ~2 hrs from ABQ, but well worth the drive. Neither of these are bouldering destinations, but there are boulder problems around. If you go to ET, Socorro is only an hour away (and on the way to ABQ) and has very good bouldering.

Nikolai Daiss-Fechner wrote:Great. Thanks a bunch guys. El Rito Looks Perfect. I'm assuming the falcon closures at the trad area will be in effect in march. Correct? If anyone has any more suggestions, I'm all ears. We are driving in from CO so anywhere in northern NM looks inviting. Do you guys have any suggestions for guidebooks for the area? Are the online resources like for El Rito good enough?

We went to El Rito last fall. We printed the guide from here and had no problem at all. Worked great. Its good fun, especially if you have never climbed cobble before. Also, the trad area is Mostly moderate. Great practice/training ground. Str8 forward drive from CO as well. Like others said- may be a bit chilly, plus, I suggest bringing some of your own wood too.

There is a little store and a liquor store in town. Make sure you have cash. Drive the pass to the lakes if possible as well. Very beautiful and taking the (long) loop back is some great scenery with some great stops along the way.