Utah alpine ice fall 09

Christian "crisco" Burrell wrote:Yeah, I knew that. But I wanted to go see it for myself. I had not ever seen it close up, or even really gone up the canyon itself. I am trying to post some pictures though just as an FYI for everybody. I had made it a goal this season so I just want to keep tabs on it. Anyone want to go do it with me when it is in?

Climbed The Fang on Thursday. There was a lot of water running inside the column but it was structuraly sound. There are a few horizontal cracks that have healed. It is worth spending sometime watching the column from the bottom before commiting to it. If it gets much warmer I probably wouldn´t try it.

Hit up Kitty Litter/ Pipe Dream today. The main pillar is in and pretty darn good. The slabby part is actually as good as I have ever seen it. The mixed lines to the left are looking pretty good too. But some of the bolts are covered up.
I still think this is an even better beginner spot that the apron is.

Habeus Corpus may be in. I saw "a pitch" formed up. Can't say if it was the 1st, or the last ... or even part of the route. But it did look like it and did look in. I'm out for the next while, but would love to hop on it. If you do go get on it, please send me a message or post something here.
Have fun
-ML

I wonder how much damage the warmer temps and rain has done to the ice...

Public Service Announcement:

The recent snow and the snow forecasted for the rest of the week is going to make avalanche conditions perfect for some major slides. Climbs like the Fang, Millers, Finger, and Bridal Veil, Whitemare in Provo as well climbs like Backoff and Squashead in Santaquin will be probably be slip sliding away. All of these climbs sit below major bowls which funnel in to the named climbs. This list is not inclusive!!!

Having seen the aftermath of Bridal veil sliding not once but twice I would like to warn folks about climbing this weekend. Be safe.

Yeah, it's worth noting that some guys saw a bunch of stuff slide off Stairway in Provo Canyon today as they were heading up the approach gully.

For Provo conditions, see my post here:

utahclimbers.com/phpBB3/vie…

(toward the bottom, posted under name "builttospill").

Drove up Provo Canyon today. The ice is looking better after all the melting.

Anyone been into Maple lately. Would like to know if its worth coming down this week sometime.

Never been there....what rope system is best? I'd like to avoid abusing my "alpine" ropes anymore (thin twins), so does a 60m work, or are two ropes pretty much mandatory for getting off routes? Is a 70m better?

Rubber Cup Nausea- In, but really thin at bottom. Not good for your first Maple trip.
Lemon- In, thicker than I've ever seen it, but still thin and probably too scary for most climbers.
Yellow Rapture and Skidders- Still not good.
Running Man- Awesome.
Tennis Shoe Slab- Good.
Cobble Cruncher- Good.
Sandbagger- Good and then scary at the top like always.
Maple Moon- Still looks a little thin.
Maple Syrup- Good.

Upper Box- No idea on anything. I would imagine Golden Plumb is good, but I haven't seen it.

Roadside Couloir- Good.
Hog Jowels- Better than I've ever seen it.
Chicken Limbo- Same as Hog Jowels.
Under Warps- Awesome.

Wet Itchies & Bowling Ball Head- good.
Get Whacked- Fell down on friday.
Frankenchrist- A guy did it on Friday. Haven't heard anything since.

Don't know about any other climbs.

A 70-meter works better for a lot of climbs in Maple.
You'll need two ropes for Running Man and Sandbagger.
(If you bring a 60 you'll need two for 5 or 6 routes.)

Thanks Darren, I appreciate it.

Guess we'll drag two ropes....it's a short walk anyway. Thanks again.

We went down to Maple Canyon with Darren's observations and it was goooood!
Bowling Ball Head

Also a few more from White Nightmare in Provo Canyon from Saturday.

Any one been to santaquin lately?

Quick update to Maple, especially for the guy looking to climb Frankenchrist that we ran into at the mouth of Box Canyon (who mentioned that it looked sorta doable): it fell down later in the day. We actually saw a block at the base with a screw hole in it. Frightening. The bomb blast divet at the base would been bad for a belayer too. Really bad. The whole upper third came off. Scary movies.

Darn warm. Most everything is pretty soupy and the ice very soft.

Bowling Ball head still looked good.
Sandbagger looked bad with a ton of running water.
Tennis Shoe Slab looked soupy, soft but still hangin' in kinda.
Maple Moon looked soft and soupy. My bet is pro wouldn't hold on the upper bit. V thread at the base of the steep stuff.
Maple Syrup looked very sketchy especially down low.
Frozen Lizards: gone.
Cobble Cruncher: looking bad near the top. Soft, with some holes in the middle of the top. Take care. First 3/4 of it still looked ok.
Running Man still looked pretty ok. Fat.
Anorexia looked too thin to lead safely.
VPL: nada.
Bottomless Topless: maybe a 1/4 or less down from the top is all.
Hourglass: nada.
MTP: soft, thin and wet. Not much above the first pillar.
Rubber Cup Nausea looked soft and thin down low.
Lemon: looked kinda ok, thin down low.
Yellow Rapture and Skidders: really thin for 1/2 the initial pitch.
Hooker: thin and soupy.
Hog Jowls: fat. Crazy fat, but, really wet and looking a bit mushy up top.
Chicken Limbo: kinda looked ok.
Roadside Coulior: top completely melted out.
Suicidal Failure: has some bulk, but, really soft looking and thin down low (as usual).

Anyhoo...there ya go.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

any recent word on provo or santaquin

michael layton wrote:any recent word on provo or santaquin

great photos!

Joe's seems to be faring a little better than the Wasatch stuff. Deadbolt was good but a bit wet. CCC Falls first pitch is good; crux is sketchy with at least one crack going the length of the pillar. Gear would probably not be worth it.