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Routes in Bluff Street Cracks
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Coner beaty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deface Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double bird T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Dust Devil T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Freeze Dried Bat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gruel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Habanero T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Inspired and Perspired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Joseph Meeks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marry f*ck kill T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pig Lloyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Warrior T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route 99 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wide Boy (extension) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,824 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Feb 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
A mostly hands- to thin-hands corner crack, with a short section of fingertip-width. The jamming is fun, a bit of liebacking is helpful, and there are face features here and there to make plugging the gear a bit easier.
Near the top, one side of the crack is pretty rough, making cam placement a bit tricky, and if you're one of those no-tape masochists...good luck.
Near the top, one side of the crack is pretty rough, making cam placement a bit tricky, and if you're one of those no-tape masochists...good luck.
Location
This left-facing, corner crack is located in the same alcove as Deface Crack and Wide Boy. It shares anchors with Deface Crack; the anchor isn't visible from the ground directly beneath the crack because it is set back a bit, over a ledge at the top of the crack.
Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.
Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.
Protection
Mostly hand-sized. I used several #2.5 Friends with one or two #3 Friends. I also used a #2 Camalot C3.
The anchor is above a ledge and consists of 3 bolts and hangers with (smallish) chain from two hangers joined with a single quicklink, and webbing from the 3rd hanger joined to the chains' quicklink with another quicklink.
The anchor is above a ledge and consists of 3 bolts and hangers with (smallish) chain from two hangers joined with a single quicklink, and webbing from the 3rd hanger joined to the chains' quicklink with another quicklink.
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