Derek Hersey

Thanks to all posters for the tales. I didn't start climbing until after Derek's untimely departure, but I've heard enough stories to recognize a character who was truly unique, even among the unusual personalities of climbers. Thanks especially to Mic for the photos--I hope this thread is going to be archived someplace because there are so few other permanent records of Derek's exploits.

There has not been much mention of what some consider his greatest feat, that of soloing three routes on the Diamond in one day (think it was D7, down-soloing the Casual Route, and then going back up on Pervertical Sanctuary??--someone correct me if I've got that wrong). If any MPers were witnesses or at least have some details to share of that epic day, I'd enjoy reading about it.

John Korfmacher wrote:Thanks to all posters for the tales. I didn't start climbing until after Derek's untimely departure, but I've heard enough stories to recognize a character who was truly unique, even among the unusual personalities of climbers. Thanks especially to Mic for the photos--I hope this thread is going to be archived someplace because there are so few other permanent records of Derek's exploits. There has not been much mention of what some consider his greatest feat, that of soloing three routes on the Diamond in one day (think it was D7, down-soloing the Casual Route, and then going back up on Pervertical Sanctuary??--someone correct me if I've got that wrong). If any MPers were witnesses or at least have some details to share of that epic day, I'd enjoy reading about it.

Dereks girlfriend, and mine at the time, were roommates, so we saw eachother everyday for a while. Derek was keen to do the 2nd ascent of Ariana and I figured if I could do 13+ at rifle, what could go wrong?

Derek never drove a car or owned a drivers license. We started toward the Diamond from S.Boulder on my Suzuki GS135 at 2AM. Yep, 2 full grown men with 2 backpacks on a tiny motorcycle. It was a sweet ride with cafe handlebars and down tailpipes. I had my pack draped across the fuel tank. Derek had his pack on his back and held onto me like I had nutritional value. Derek with a back pack walking up a hill reminds of ants with sticks on Animal Planet, they're tiny, but can carry 10X their weight. Just sayin'.

We marched up to the Diamond. Derek was almost naked and I was girded in 2 pairs of Lycra. He new how crappy and choked with "nutters" the North Chimney was so we soloed a route to the left in our tennis shoes. It was as foggy as my mind is right now while writing this, so I didn't understand why everybody wasn't just free soloing around that shit chimney! I'll never do that again.

We had the basics of the plan for the climb. Let's take no food, no water and leave 2 beers in the lake. Ariana went very smoothly(as Derek thought though), Dan Stone and Co. may have beat us to the punch on the 2nd ascent on this route. Derek and I hiked right up the route nonetheless.

We got the worst rain and lightning storm I never imagined, RIGHT AT THE TOP! EVERYONE that has ever seen this at the top, or anywere else on the Diamond can relate. Derek was thrilled and I was clueless. He never shut up the whole trip.

As a guide for most of my life, it was weird being guided by a guy that thought this was funny. The whole way down all he could talk about was the beers in the lake "jess' waitn' for us".

There was not that super comfy set of rappel stations that exist now. I just had to trust Derek. He rapped down the Diamond with the happiest look on his face one could imagine. Derek would just kick away from the wall with a massive grin and not care. There was so much rain that his ATC squirted water for many feet, all over his face and there was no care to Derek. He just laughed all the way down the wall on rappel. It seemed like following a happy Satan, that new it would all work out. He never looked more happy.

I made it to the ground with my lycra and my Edlinger pink/purple boots. I was soaked in the most water I can imagine, all the thing I can think is, "dude this guy is NOT thinking about death". He's all about life! A friggin' great guy

I need an editor.......

Hank Caylor wrote:... I need an editor.......

Hank I totally agree with Mark. You nailed it. What a great story and very well told.

"held onto me like I had nutritional value" What a tremendous turn of phrase! I am still cackle-laughing an hour later!

Great story Hank.

Just watching Dirty bird as we speak after a days climbing at fairhead ireland. Derek seemed like an awesome guy. I never met him but the piece in front range freaks is so inspiritaional and derek seemed like a total legend and based on what i've read here a really cool guy. Thanks for the stories guys.

I met Derek briefly when I moved out here from the Gunk’s. I use to pirate camp my bus in Eldo down by the lower parking lot and one morning he came banging on the side waking me up asking if I wanted to rope up. He looked a little drunk and I declined, thinking breakfast at Dot’s was more my speed to cure my hangover.
He left for Yosemite soon thereafter.

Watching Derek solo up and down the Bastille was probably the most inspiring climbing I’ve ever seen.

Here’s Pat Ament’s article on Derek from his magazine The Climbing Art #21

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Hey Caylor, yah Prancer ;-)

I only attended his slide shows, but these were memorable. Disorganized, terrible photos, but somehow Derek's personality made them hilarious. I don't think I've ever laughed so hard since.

In the early 90's Derek was climbing at the Tower with a buddy of mine during a hot summer week, and so ended up sharing a small campsite with us for a few days. The first day, after a breakfast of grease with a side of grease, he cruised up Avalon. "Nice path!" he said. Meanwhile the gumbies (us) were finding One Way Sunset to be a challenge. I recall that he really didn't care who you were or how hard you climbed, but if you were good company and appreciated a good sense of humor (and grease) he seemed happy. I'm sure our selection of dark English beer helped a bit. I think we even had a couple of Sheafs. We were all more than happy to provide the beer, and he would toast "Down the neck with swill!!!" and continue on with his story telling well into the wee hours.

Thanks to Chase for opening this topic. John's passing made me also think of Derek lately, and his similar soloing exploits. "Want to watch me solo the Edge?" he asked one day at the Office.

Yes, Derek, we do. Cheers.

very interesting read everyone who posted here. thanks chase for putting this out.

A little know fact and the only reason that Derek was able to bum around for so long yet afford all those sheaf stouts was that he was heir to the Hersey Chocolate fortune.

Derek's mom Wynn turns 88 in a couple weeks. A bunch of birthday cards would brighten her day. It doesn't matter if she knows you or not- show some love! Get me for the address.

thanks to everyone who has sent a card!

When asked how he could keep it together to free solo so near his limit, Derek would reply "mind over matter, mate".
Cheers

In about 1985 or so, I was doing some odd route on the Elephants Buttresses in Boulder Canyon (I think it was called Molar Czakl or something bizarre). It was loose and so I was placing a lot of small stoppers. 30-40-something feet up, a handhold ripped off and I took a fall. I then finished the route. Afterwards, walking down the pipe, my partner Steve Dean and I passed Derek. We said hello, then watched as he went over to this route, and wearing big white basketball shoes, soloed the thing. Needless to say, we were just a little nervous about what might happen. He was fine....

I like what Bill Duncan said "he really didn't care who you were or how hard you climbed, but if you were good company and appreciated a good sense of humor (and grease) he seemed happy".

That really shows the type of climber and person he was by just hanging out and enjoying climbing and other climbers, just a lot of class.

Never rock climbed a day in my life. Although a friend of mine turned me on to at least watching masters of stone and front range freaks.

Whether or not you're into rock climbing... Derek Hersey should get the recognition he deserves.

My palm sweat just watching movies of that guy!

Cheers to Derek!

das,da,man n action ! any of you warrior's ever touched those sweet holds ?